19 July 2024
Celebrating African Artisans: A Necessary Spotlight
- COSH! Member Publicity
- Diversity
Are you interested in prints, handmade pieces, or ethnic clothing? If so, have you ever wondered about the stories behind these unique creations? If these brands are ethical and genuinely value their artisans and craftsmanship, they ensure that credit and financial compensation are appropriately given. Unfortunately, many fast fashion brands exploit this know-how without acknowledging the creators.
At COSH!, we stand for supporting sustainable brands that not only protect the environment but also preserve their cultural heritage. This article will explore how these brands that embrace their cultural roots also adhere to slow fashion principles. Our eco-responsible entrepreneurs will also share their ethical approach to incorporating traditional skills.
For both consumers and aspiring entrepreneurs, we offer valuable advice.
How Fast Fashion Exploits Cultural Heritage
Fashion draws inspiration from various sources, including art, literature, music, and cultural traditions. These elements collectively form what we refer to as cultural heritage.
According to the Central European University, cultural heritage encompasses the tangible aspects of a group or society’s legacy, such as cultural artefacts and intangible attributes passed down from the past. Heritage for Peace further defines it as the expression of a community’s developed lifestyles, including customs, practices, places, objects, artistic expressions, and values, transmitted from one generation to another.
Therefore, cultural heritage is intricately tied to communities and the people who generate this knowledge. Unfortunately, this connection is often severed in the fashion industry, and this valuable knowledge is exploited without proper credit or recognition. This exploitation renders the human contributors and their concerns invisible, even though they may face dangers due to geographical location, financial status, race, and other circumstances.
The fashion industry has a troubling history of appropriating artisanal knowledge without acknowledging or honouring the communities that originated these creations. For instance, you may come across accessories with stereotyped Native American designs, Mexican prints, saris from India, and Malian prints widely used in summer fashion collections. Regrettably, these prints and artisanal techniques are often devalued and exploited, either sold at discounted prices during summer sales or disproportionately marked up by luxury brands.
In a recent case, Mexico took legal action against Zara and Patowl for incorporating cultural heritage elements of indigenous peoples into their collections. Alejandra Frausto, the Mexican Minister of Culture, emphasised that “this is a principle of ethical consideration that, locally and globally obliges us to draw attention to and debate the protection of the rights of indigenous peoples who have been historically invisible.”
The situation with Inditex’s Zara brand and Patowl and other fashion brands like Isabel Marant, Mango, and Carolina Herrera highlights a troubling pattern of cultural appropriation and exploitation in the fashion industry. These brands have been using elements, such as traditional prints for t‑shirts or dresses, from the cultural heritage of indigenous communities. From the municipality of Oaxaca to San Juan, the Mixtec and Zapotec people from the San Antonino Castillo Velasco community weren’t given due credit or recognition for the origins of these designs.
As the Minister of Culture pointed out, ethics have been utterly disregarded, and the rights and struggles of these vulnerable communities have been overlooked. It is a glaring example of how the fashion industry can profit from the work of marginalised and indigenous groups without facing significant consequences.
Addressing the Imbalance: North-South Disparities and the Divide Between Large and Small Fashion Companies
A Significant Economic Imbalance
In the fashion world, we often witness a concerning trend where cultural heritage or cultural appropriation predominantly flows in one direction: from the global North to the global South. In this dynamic, companies from the North appropriate the traditional knowledge and expertise of communities from the South, mechanise or industrialise their creations, and then sell them at either low prices or disproportionately high values.
What was once a skilful craft performed by hand is now replaced with rapid machine production, making it challenging for artisans to compete in this market. Consequently, these communities face a double loss – not only are they deprived of the fair compensation they deserve for their hard work, but their overall situation does not improve either. Instead, the profits generated from their cultural heritage go predominantly to large companies, exacerbating the imbalance further.
An ethical approach would involve giving back these profits to the artisan collectives and providing them with fair wages for their contributions, whether for the original design or the artisanal work. Unfortunately, many fast-fashion brands neglect this responsibility and fail to compensate these communities adequately for their cultural contributions.
A Lack of Visibility
Louis Vuitton, which offered a $750 keffiyeh as an emblem of the Palestinian struggle — at the same time, claiming to remain “neutral” about Israeli colonisation. The same goes for Etro, which recently used Native American Navajo aesthetics for its collection. As we saw earlier, large companies often appropriate objects, traditions, music, and art to profit from these communities whilst disregarding their respective issues.
In the fashion industry, visibility is heavily skewed, with luxury and fast-fashion brands conducting massive marketing campaigns that overshadow the efforts of artisans and small brands seeking to showcase cultural traditions. It is essential to cultivate true collaborations with craftspeople and designers from these countries to establish an ethical approach, giving them due recognition and prominence.
A genuine collaboration involves showcasing the crafters’ work and ensuring they are properly acknowledged and compensated with good working conditions and fair wages. Unfortunately, luxury and fast-fashion brands often fail to highlight the challenges faced by these communities and instead appropriate their cultural symbols for profit, disregarding their actual concerns.
Furthermore, fashion brands can exploit these communities precisely because they are not widely recognised and face economic vulnerability. The situation worsens as these communities remain unseen and financially fragile. This phenomenon is akin to what the black community in the United States expresses with the saying, “They want our rhythm, but not our blues.”
Cultural Heritage and Slow Fashion
Incorporating handicrafts or traditional know-how into your designs as a designer or brand represents a slow fashion approach.
Unique and High-Quality Pieces
Brands that embrace traditional craftsmanship are known for offering one-of-a-kind, handcrafted pieces. Slow fashion thrives on a local approach, prioritising fair-trade materials and high-quality fabrics. When you purchase from such brands, you can expect top-notch quality because the design, materials, and manufacturing processes are all meticulously carried out by skilled local artisans who deeply understand the tools and techniques involved.
Handcrafted pieces in slow fashion transcend seasonal trends; they are timeless and exceptionally durable due to the careful selection of materials. Fast fashion prioritises low-cost materials for higher profitability, whereas slow fashion focuses on lasting quality. The intention is to provide you with items that withstand the test of time, discouraging a culture of frequent consumption and waste.
Collaborating With Artisans: A Fair Partnership
Fast fashion heavily exploits its workforce, imposing long hours, poor working conditions, and low wages. On the other hand, designers or brand founders who incorporate their cultural heritage into their work often have a more intimate relationship with their community and artisans. They prioritise providing fair wages and decent working conditions, fostering a collaborative and appreciative atmosphere that values the craftsmanship of these artisans.
Unlike fast fashion, these brands showcase the stories and practices of the artisans, giving them a face and a name in the process. This approach allows the artisans to make a living from their art.
Slow fashion entrepreneurs are also encouraged to produce their goods locally. By doing so, they support local economies while promoting sustainability and responsible production practices.
In the slow fashion movement, the production chain is intentionally transparent, which reshapes the traditional hierarchy between creators, consumers, and producers. This transparency fosters a deeper connection between all parties involved and reduces unnecessary intermediation. As a result, consumers gain a greater appreciation for the cultural and material value of the products they purchase.
The shared commitment of all stakeholders is clear – to create a positive impact on the environment and society as a whole.
Producing In Small Quantities
Fast-fashion brands churn out an overwhelming number of clothing items daily, with SHEIN alone creating over 8000 pieces daily. This massive production has a disastrous environmental impact, especially when many of these pieces are made from materials like polyester and discarded, ending up in delicate ecosystems. Many of these low-quality, fast fashion items are quickly discarded, travelling enormous distances from donation boxes in Europe to countries in the Global South such as Ghana or Uganda.
On the other hand, brands collaborating with artisans slowly cannot produce such enormous quantities due to the nature of craftsmanship, where each piece is meticulously handmade. This respect for the rhythm of the crafters is a significant advantage for the environment, as it minimises wasteful overproduction and reduces the strain on resources.
You actively promote slow and sustainable production practices by supporting a small brand in the slow fashion movement.
“Social Washing” as a Means of Exploiting Cultural Heritage
In recent years, consumer interest in the production process of their clothing has grown significantly. According to McKinsey, “67% of consumers consider the use of sustainable materials to be an important factor in their purchasing decisions, and 63% value brands that promote sustainability.” As a result, many brands quickly label themselves as eco-responsible or circular to attract these conscious consumers.
However, it is crucial to be vigilant, as some brands may exploit traditional know-how while simultaneously claiming to uplift women out of poverty or suggesting that artisans would be impoverished without their intervention. This practice raises ethical concerns and highlights the importance of verifying the authenticity of sustainability claims made by brands.
Although many artisans in developing countries often face poverty, it is not justified for creators or brands to exploit their know-how in exchange for meagre compensation. In contrast, the brand enjoys substantial profits and marketing advantages from the perceived social aspect. Brands with economic power and visibility often take advantage of the unbalanced relationship, using their privilege while being aware of the disparity. They may attempt to appease their guilt by making small donations to NGOs. Unfortunately, such practices are common in the fashion industry, known as social washing and white saviourism.
Social washing is a tactic used by companies to divert consumers’ attention away from the harmful effects they may have. White saviourism, or “the white saviour complex,” is an ideology where a white person assumes a position of superiority to ‘save’ a BIPOC (black, indigenous, or a person of colour) community or individual. These techniques are designed to appeal to conscious consumers.
In reality, brands often enrich themselves at the expense of artisans who can barely survive. The brand takes advantage of the artisans’ know-how and uses high-quality materials while paying low wages, resulting in higher profits for the company. Instead of collaborating with artisans and supporting local communities, the brand dictates most aspects, including salaries.
If you aspire to create a brand based on traditional know-how without any existing connection to that community, it is crucial to research what already exists locally thoroughly.
Cultural heritage and ethics
The COSH! platform is full of brands and boutiques that support communities, their heritage, and their environment. Discover these entrepreneurs and their timeless and unique pieces.
Guave
A love for batik in Amsterdam
Guave, the fair fashion brand based in Amsterdam, has a profound passion for Javanese batik, sustainability, and fair production. This love for Javanese batik fabrics is beautifully reflected in their stunning collection of batik prints. Guave is committed to ethically sourcing the batiks from small, independent businesses in Indonesia.
To gain valuable insights into their approach to incorporating cultural heritage into their brand, we had the opportunity to interview the founders of Guave.
Did your country’s cultural heritage or craftsmanship inspire you to create your brand? If so, how?
We were born in the Netherlands and have ancestral roots, primarily from Java, Indonesia, on our father’s side. Approximately a decade ago, we explored our family history and the historical ties between Indonesia and the Netherlands — this journey to understand our identity and its significance naturally intertwined with our passion for textiles and fashion.
Interestingly, fate brought us together while at the art academy, where we studied Fashion Design. We found that expressing and shaping our identities through clothing resonated deeply with us, leading us to discover the art of batik. As we delved further into this traditional craft, batik became the central focus and narrative of our brand, Guave.
Why is it essential for you to promote your cultural heritage?
For us at Guave, it is of utmost importance to promote the cultural heritage of batik as more than just a craft but a centuries-old tradition. This remarkable art was recognised as part of UNESCO’s intangible world heritage in 2009, making it a significant part of our shared human history. Throughout generations, the people of Java have used batik to share stories and communicate through their clothes. It holds a more profound meaning beyond being a simple piece of cloth; it represents stories and traditions passed down from mother to daughter, made with love and meticulous attention, painstakingly crafted line by line and dot by dot.
Our brand, Guave, embodies this essence of batik – clothing with a captivating narrative, lovingly handcrafted and carrying the legacy of generations. We firmly believe that true craftsmanship goes hand in hand with sustainability. Creating batik requires time and dedication, resulting in a unique and valuable piece of art. Despite facing competition from the fast fashion industry, authentic handmade batik stands out distinctly from industrially printed versions. This distinction allows us to use only genuine handmade batik in our creations, promoting this beautiful craft and inspiring people to make conscious choices. We aim to foster an appreciation for the timeless crafts that have graced our world for centuries.
When creating your brand, did you consider the possibility of exploitation of cultural heritage and craftsmanship by large Global North companies?
Throughout creating our brand, we have been extremely cautious and engaged in numerous discussions with individuals from the fashion and batik industries. Our core values revolve around fair pricing, ethical work practices, and complete transparency in our dealings with the people we collaborate with. We firmly believe in the significance of celebrating and promoting the artistry of batik, so we refrain from negotiating the prices set by the skilled batik makers we work with. We also abstain from interfering with their designs, as we recognise their expertise as true artists honing their craft over the years.
Transparency has been a key element of our approach. We openly communicate with our customers and online followers, sharing the captivating stories behind the batik creations and explaining the meaning of the motifs. We aim to create a sense of connection and appreciation for this ancient craft. By educating our audience about the value of these fabrics and treating them with respect, we hope to honour the rich heritage of batik and ensure its enduring legacy.
Do you have a statement to describe your project and its relationship with your culture?
‘Slow down, be colourful and share the love of batik with us!’
Indikon
Timeless and ethically made Indian block-printing textile accessories
Indikon is a brand launched in 2021 in Brussels by Radhika, a former lawyer of Indian origin. Through her brand, Radhika aims to capture the essence of two countries: the craftsmanship of her homeland and the aesthetics of ancient Greece.
Has your cultural heritage inspired you to create your brand? If so, why?
I aim to safeguard cultural heritage as an essential concept, not only in Indian or Greek culture but all cultures worldwide. Unfortunately, cultural heritages face the threat of disappearance as fast fashion brands exploit them and turn them into fleeting trends without regard for preserving their diverse, rich histories.
What is your relationship with craftspeople? How are they involved in your brand?
Through my work, I collaborate closely with craftspeople to preserve and pass on valuable cultural heritage. My brand primarily focuses on defending and protecting these craftspeople, safeguarding their rights and livelihoods.
However, I noticed that these crafts were predominantly practised by men, leading me to seek opportunities to work with actively and support women.
To empower women and promote gender equality, I collaborate with women’s NGOs dedicated to education, empowerment, and healthcare. Through these partnerships, we aim to positively impact women’s lives and contribute to their advancement in various aspects of society.
At Indikon, our collection features a range of exquisite products inspired by cultural heritage. You will find gorgeous scarves inspired by ancient Greek theatres, beautifully printed placemats to brighten up your table, and hand-printed organic cotton pyjamas. Each piece celebrates the rich history behind it while supporting the skilled artisans and women whose dedication brings these creations to life.
BeCultures
Ethical Multicultural Fashion
Nesrine, the brand’s founder, curates a stunning collection of elegant outfits that seamlessly blend the sophistication of English style with the intricate artistry of Moroccan craftsmanship. The range includes graceful dresses and skirts, chic shirts, and refined pleated trousers, all thoughtfully designed to complement everyday life with a touch of timeless allure.
Did your cultural heritage inspire you to create your brand? If so, why?
Few European brands integrate Moroccan culture into their collections, limiting design elements to special occasions. My vision is to change this narrative and showcase the richness of my culture in everyday fashion. I want Europeans to embrace our unique know-how as a part of their daily attire, breaking away from the perception of it being solely reserved for costumes or holiday wear. By doing so, I aim to foster a deeper appreciation for Moroccan craftsmanship and heritage, striving to make it an integral and celebrated aspect of European fashion.
What is your relationship with the artisans? How are they involved in your brand?
I work directly with skilled tailors in both Belgium and Morocco, ensuring that any exploitative structures do not bind them. By employing them directly, I strive to provide fair wages and dignified treatment for their invaluable craftsmanship.
Our collection at BeCultures offers a delightful fusion of English style and Moroccan know-how. You will discover an array of dresses, shirts, trousers, and skirts that blend these two distinct cultures.
Charana Zero
100% alpaca products
Charana Zero is a brand that takes immense pride in offering 100% Ecuadorian alpaca products, focusing on promoting culture and sustainability. “Charana” holds a beautiful meaning as it translates to “to give” in Aymara Churaña, a language spoken by Ecuador’s indigenous Aymara people. This indigenous community possesses a centuries-old culture brimming with rich traditions, including the intricate art of hand-weaving wool.
At Charana Zero, their mission is to spread and preserve this remarkable tradition while advocating for zero waste in the fashion industry. Founder Ángeles López, who left Ecuador for Valencia in 2019 to pursue co-design studies, is deeply passionate about reviving the textile techniques and legends of the Andean peoples of Latin America. She wishes to share these memories, now fading and remembered only by grandparents, with the world.
The brand’s commitment goes beyond preserving tradition; it also extends to caring for the alpacas, whose fibres are used in their products. Ángeles ensures that the communities supplying them with alpaca fibre practice healthy, ethical, and responsible methods in interacting with these magnificent animals. The alpaca fibres come from small-scale farms, aligning with Charana Zero’s dedication to sustainability and ethical sourcing.
Through her creations, Ángeles invites you to embark on a journey to discover the wonders of her Andean cultural heritage, to experience it firsthand, and to preserve it through the art of clothing.
Maqu
Berlin-based sustainable fashion brand combining Peruvian tradition and craftsmanship with modern design.
Marisa Fuentes Prado, the designer behind Maqu, has founded a brand that embraces sustainability as its guiding principle. With meticulous attention, she curates production methods, materials, and origins to preserve nature and livelihoods. Marisa’s roots in Lima, Peru, and her background in fashion design in Europe uniquely position her to bridge the gap between cultures and continents.
At Maqu, every material has a story, as Marisa continually explores nature’s innovations. With a strong focus on ecological and fair trade practices, the brand expertly blends tradition and modernity. Whether individual pieces or small series, all products are lovingly handmade in Germany and Peru, a testament to Maqu’s commitment to quality and sustainability.
Maqu’s collections are a vibrant celebration of Peruvian and European influences, resulting in various colourful and one-of-a-kind pieces made from recycled materials.
JIWYA
Preserving Indian Artisanal Traditions for Sustainable Fashion
Based in Nashik, India, JIWYA is more than a fashion brand; it’s a tribute to India’s rich heritage and sustainable ethos. Founded by two friends who feel a great love for textile traditions, JIWYA thrives on preserving ancient crafts and techniques.
With a network of over 100 skilled artisans, JIWYA honors India’s diverse cultural heritage. Each artisan, recognized for their mastery, contributes to the brand’s commitment to authenticity. By prioritizing natural materials and ancient designs, JIWYA ensures that traditional craftsmanship thrives in a modern, sustainable context.
Embracing rainfed cotton and plant-based dyes, JIWYA champions eco-friendly practices at every step. Through transparency and meticulous sourcing, the brand showcases the skilled hands behind each creation, celebrating the artisans’ contributions to ethical fashion.
In essence, JIWYA stands as a testament to the enduring legacy of Indian craftsmanship, weaving tradition, sustainability, and style into every garment.
IMAIMAI
Blending Modesty, Diversity, and Empowerment
Rooted in Berlin’s cultural tapestry, ÏMAIMA is more than just a fashion label; it’s a celebration of modesty, diversity, and empowerment. At the heart of ÏMAIMA’s philosophy lies a dedication to craftsmanship and cultural heritage. Each garment tells a story of meticulous artistry, with materials carefully sourced from Jaipur, India. Founder Bahhareh’s vision extends beyond fashion, aiming to leave a legacy of empowerment and ecological stewardship.
ÏMAIMA’s journey began with a conscious decision to establish an ethical manufacturing base in India, prioritizing fair wages, safe working conditions, and mutual respect. Despite its growth, the brand remains deeply connected to its artisans, fostering a sense of community and collaboration. Bahhareh’s involvement in day-to-day operations ensures that the brand’s ethical values are upheld at every stage of production.
Beyond the workplace, ÏMAIMA is committed to supporting its artisans’ professional growth and personal well-being, contributing to the local economy and fostering lasting relationships within the community. Through partnerships with NGOs like UMANG in Jaipur, ÏMAIMA continues to make a positive impact, empowering women both as consumers and creators.
JYOTI FAIR WORKS
Empowering Women Through Fair Fashion
Nestled in Berlin, Jyoti Fair Works transcends the traditional fashion store, offering not just exquisite garments but a beacon of hope for women in India. Founded by Jeanine, a passionate law student driven by a desire for social change, Jyoti Fair Works is a testament to the transformative power of ethical fashion.
Beyond fashion, Jyoti Fair Works is a story of empowerment. Partnering with three sewing workshops in India, connected with women-led NGOs, the brand directly supports 40 women, providing them with stable incomes, access to healthcare, and opportunities for personal and professional growth. By offering fair wages and flexible working hours, Jyoti Fair Works enables these women to support their families while pursuing their dreams.
As Jeanine, the founder, aptly puts it, “We may not be able to change the textile industry alone, but we can serve as a positive example.” With each garment, Jyoti Fair Works embodies the belief that fashion can be a force for good, empowering women and inspiring change one stitch at a time.
