Tracing Shein’s invisible supply chain

In a recent parliamentary hearing in the UK, Shein was investigated over its lacking supply chain transparency, specifically the origins of its cotton. But what about the parts of the supply chain where Shein is supposedly being transparent? 

With online shopping becoming part of our lifestyle and returns a new routine, Swedish newspaper Aftonbladet wanted to know what happens with our returns. In 2023 the newspaper traced second-hand clothes returned by H&M customers back to beaches in West Africa. In 2024, they turned their attention to ultra-fast fashion player, Shein. The research team bought 5 items to return and track. The results uncovering something even larger and unexpected than imagined.

EU returns stay within the EU

Prior to the publication of Aftonbladet’s review, they asked Shein a number of questions, to which they responded with a general statement. In that statement, the brand claimed 90% of their EU returns are repackaged and put back into their warehouse system of sale to EU customers. 

Journey to Malmö: 617km

The investigators tracked each return with hidden AirTags. The first location, Yun Express warehouse, an e‑commerce company with quite the bad reputation, set outside of Malmö. Already alarm bells start to ring when the ownership of the company is unclear, and the supposed CEO hasn’t been seen by employees in over a year, with no one else left responsible at the local warehouse. Repeated emails to the CEO were left unanswered. And access to the warehouse denied. On to the next AirTag signal in a deserted Polish field. 

Journey to Wrocław: 1 473 km

In the middle of a deserted Polish field, the research team finds the heart of Shein’s package handling in Europe. This metal building is 750 meters long, with 175 loading bays and takes half an hour to walk around and is so new it doesn’t even appear on Google Maps. Two of the tracked items signalled from this location, a blue dress and a burgundy bag, were estimated to have been resold here in Europe. The bag shared its last location from Belgium and the dress ended up in a Polish city. The other 3 pieces still had a long way to go. 

The world’s most extreme dumping ground: The Atacama Desert in Chile: 19 661 km 

From the Polish warehouse, the rest of the garments travelled to M&A Export Srl, outside of Turin, where these unwanted returns are collected in bags to be sold in bulk. The items leave Europe and set sail to Elizabeth, outside New York. 149 days after the processing of their returns, the 3 leftover items send signals from Iquique, Chile. 

Northern Chile is home to the Atacama Desert, one of the driest deserts in the world. Today, this barren and remote spot is considered the perfect fast fashion graveyard. According to the BBC, around 60 000 tonnes of used clothing is shipped to Iquique annually, and more than half ends up in landfill. A prime example of waste colonialism. 
Want to learn more about Western waste colonialism, read about it here in our blog.

Changing Markets reports that Shein uses 82% of synthetic materials in its garments, leading the charge in fast fashion. When dumped and burned in these dumping grounds, microplastics and other harmful chemicals and toxins are released and spread by desert winds, reaching nearby buildings. No health reports have been made, but we can only imagine the health effects caused by these fires. 

In the duty-free area of Iquique is a street full of warehouses stacked with bales of compressed clothes. The garments that don’t meet the warehouse standards are repacked and loaded onto trucks, either headed for the dumping grounds, or Bolivia.

The dark secrets hidden in Bolivia: 20 144 km

Bolivia strictly prohibits all imports of used clothing, to protect the country’s textile industry and the environment, yet the researchers AirTags send signals from Oruro. Once the richest city in Bolivia, now known for its smuggling operations. 

Here, the team finds out the clothing trade in Bolivia is maffia-run by gangs who also smuggle drugs. 

Despite the law prohibiting used clothing imports, Oruro’s second hand clothing market keeps busy. Noticeable in the clothing stands, the transparent Shein logo bags. Re-sellers confused as to why people would want to get rid of these items.

The clothes kept on moving, with the last signal of one of the items reaching 21 219 km away from Stockholm, where their journey started. So far for keeping European returns resold in the EU.

Why this matters

Returned goods contribute to textile waste, carbon emissions, and ethical concerns – none of which align with Shein’s publicised efforts to appear more eco-conscious or socially responsible.

For consumers, this exposes the fine print of what ​“free returns” might actually cost the planet. Each click on that ​“return” button feeds into a system that lacks accountability and prioritises profit over sustainability.

What can we do?

As consumers, our power lies in our choices. Here are a few ways to align your wardrobe with your values:

• Support brands with high transparency in their full supply chain.
• Think before you buy:. Are you really going to wear this garment? And if only for one event, could you find something similar with friends or family?
• Rethink returns: before sending something back, consider reselling, swapping or donating locally.

Sources:

• https://​special​.aftonbladet​.se/​s​t​o​r​y​/​8​qxQOQ
• https://​www​.youtube​.com/​w​a​t​c​h​?​v​=​u​y​H​g​Y​2​O__fY
• https://​apparelinsider​.com/​s​h​e​i​n​-​f​a​c​e​s​-​p​a​r​l​i​a​m​e​n​t​a​r​y​-​s​c​r​u​t​i​n​y​-​o​v​e​r​-​s​u​p​p​l​y​-​c​h​a​i​n​-​t​r​a​n​s​p​a​r​ency/