How does COSH! screen brands?

Production locations

When we look at a brand’s production locations, we examine where the clothes are made and how this affects the people working there. Some countries are known for having higher risks when it comes to poor working conditions or violations of living wages, so it’s important for us to know the full picture.

We also ask brands if they regularly visit the factories or production facilities where their products are made. Visiting shows a brand’s commitment to maintaining safe and fair workplaces. This way, we can assess whether the brand is actively involved in keeping an eye on their production standards.

Working Conditions & Living Wages

Here, we dive into how a brand ensures ethical treatment of workers throughout their supply chain. Do the workers have fair wages? Are they working in safe conditions? These are some of the key questions we ask when screening a brand.

Next we check if the brand and their suppliers have any certification that show that the working conditions in the supply chain were checked by a third party. For small brands, it can be difficult to get certifications, so we don’t stop there. We also look at the brand’s code of conduct, their own workforce, and how they build relationships with their suppliers. Are they ensuring workers’ safety? Do they communicate regularly with their manufacturers?

We also check if the brand supports any social initiatives or welfare schemes that help uplift communities. And, when brands work with social enterprises or provide jobs for people distanced from the labour market, it gives us further insight into their commitment to making a positive social impact.

Product materials

When screening brands for the Planet theme, we first examine the materials they use in their products (shoes or garments). Materials play a big role in a brand’s environmental footprint, and we look for information about their sustainability.

Some materials have a lower environmental impact than others. For example, organic cotton or Tencel require less water and fewer chemicals then conventional cotton. If the brand uses certified materials, like GOTS certified organic cottong (Global Organic Textile Standard), we’ll also take this into account. We also check if there’s specific information about the buttons, zippers, and other details (haberdashery), as these elements can often be overlooked but still can have a significant impact.

Packaging

The environmental impact doesn’t stop at materials. We also look at the packaging materials used. We look at both how products are packaged for shipping to consumers and how they’re packaged for transport between factories.

If the brand uses more sustainable packaging materials, like recycled or biodegradable options, we’ll highlight that. For example, does the brand use plastic-free packaging or FSC-certified cardboard for e‑commerce orders?

Water usage & chemicals

Water and chemical usage during production, especially in processes like dyeing and printing, are key factors for the Planet theme. We assess how brands manage these aspects. Some brands have specific measures in place to reduce water consumption, while others might use low-impact dyes that minimise the release of harmful chemicals into the environment.

We also look for any applicable certifications related to water and chemical management, such as OEKO-TEX, which ensures no harmful substances are present in the finished products. Additionally, we investigate whether the brand addresses microplastics, which can be released during washing, especially from synthetic fabrics.

Circular product design

Circular design means thinking about a product’s entire lifecycle, from how it’s made to what happens when it’s no longer usable. One key aspect is the materials used. Brands committed to circularity often choose mono materials (a single material) because these are easier to recycle compared to blends. Products made with mixed materials, especially those combining plant-based and synthetic fibres, are much harder to recycle.

• Does the brand use recycled, upcycled, or deadstock materials? While using these materials reduces waste, upcycled clothing or mixed-material products might be trickier to recycle after use.

On top of that, we assess how repairable the products are. Some brands use special circular methods, making their products easy to disassemble and repair, extending their lifespan. Repair-friendly products are an important part of circular product design, as they help to reduce waste.

Circular business models

A brand’s commitment to circularity often goes beyond the products themselves. We also look at whether they integrate circular business models into their structure, such as offering repair services or collaborating with repair shops. If a repair service is available, is it free? And how easy is it for customers to access these services?

Additionally, we check if the brand has its own take-back service for worn or used items. This is not the same as e‑commerce returns! A proper take-back service means the brand collects used clothing for recycling or reselling. We also look into how effective this service is — what actually happens to the collected items?

Finally, we investigate whether the brand has embraced other circular business models, like rental or resale services. These models are great ways to keep products in circulation longer, reducing waste and promoting a more sustainable fashion cycle.

Distance & complexity of the supply chain

When we look at a brand’s supply chain, we consider the distance a product has to travel from its place of production to your doorstep. This includes the various locations where production takes place and how many steps are involved before the product reaches you. A shorter, simpler supply chain generally means fewer emissions and a smaller carbon footprint.

Some brands have a more complex supply chain, involving multiple countries and manufacturing steps, while others might keep it simpler by producing everything in one location. For example, if a brand manufactures its products close to its headquarters, it usually results in less travel and fewer emissions.

Transportation

Transportation also plays a role in a brand’s overall environmental impact. We look at how goods are transported throughout the supply chain, from factories to stores/​warehouses. Are they using more energy-efficient modes of transport, like trains or ships, or more carbon-intensive options like air freight? The means of transport chosen directly affect the carbon footprint of the product, combined with the frequency and the distance of the transportation.

We also consider transportation in e‑commerce, which covers how products are shipped to consumers. Is the brand using carbon-neutral shipping methods (like bike couriers), or have they implemented any strategies to reduce the environmental impact of delivering products to your door?

When evaluating a brand’s impact on animal wellbeing, we start by examining the materials they use. COSH! looks at whether the garments are free from animal-based materials (maybe even PETA approved vegan) or if the brand uses animal-based materials in a way that supports animal welfare.

If the brand does use animal-based materials like wool, silk, or leather, we assess how these materials are sourced. For example, does the brand work with mulesing-free wool to ensure animal welfare in sheep farming? Does it use recycled leather or organic silk to minimise environmental and ethical impacts?

COSH! also checks if the brand adheres to any relevant certifications or standards that ensure a more ethical treatment of animals. Certifications like Responsible Wool Standard (RWS), or Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS) provide reassurance that the animals are treated with care and respect.

We also look for whether the brand has a code of conduct regarding animal materials. For example, does the brand ban the use of fur or exotic animal skins? Do they only use wool that supports small-scale farmers, preserving cultural heritage while maintaining ethical standards?

This way, even if a brand uses animal products, it can still be animal-friendly by ensuring responsible sourcing and treatment of animals. 
In regards of the risk of microplastics being released by synthetic vegan materials: This is included in the previous ​‘planet’ theme. COSH! takes into account the environmental risks of vegan alternatives, which can sometimes be less sustainable due to synthetic materials that release microplastics during wear of washing.

Product design

When evaluating a brand’s commitment to slow fashion, we start by looking at the design and style of their products. Slow fashion is all about quality, timelessness, and inclusivity.

We also assess the brand’s inclusivity when it comes to product sizes and styles. Does the brand offer a wide range of sizes to cater to different body types? Are their designs versatile and timeless, encouraging customers to wear them season after season?

Slow fashion processes

Another key aspect of slow fashion is how a brand structures its production and release cycle. Some brands align with slow fashion by launching fewer collections per year or having a steady collection that they gradually add to over time, avoiding the wastefulness of fast fashion’s constant new releases.

We also look at whether the brand takes part in sales periods. Constant discounts can encourage overconsumption, which goes against slow fashion principles. Brands that avoid frequent sales usually place more value on the long-term worth of their products.

Does the brand offer made-to-measure or made-to-order options? These slow fashion practices reduce overproduction and waste by ensuring that only the necessary items are created. This careful approach to production aligns with the ethos of creating fewer but better-quality garments.

Transparency on product

COSH! values brands that are upfront with consumers about their products. Transparency on product pages and hangtags is key, and we evaluate how much detail a brand provides about their materials, production locations, and even the traceability of specific items.

What information is available on online product pages or on the hangtags in the shops? Do they mention the materials used? Are the production countries listed? The more detail provided, the better.
One important question we ask is whether you, as a consumer, can trace your purchase back to where it was made. Product traceability is an indicator of a brand’s transparency. If the brand can tell you exactly where your item was produced, it’s a great sign of their commitment to ethical practices.

Transparency on processes

Transparency isn’t just about products — it also applies to a brand’s entire supply chain and processes. We look at how much information the brand shares about its suppliers, manufacturing processes, and cost calculations. For example, do they disclose how much they pay their workers or the environmental impact of their production methods?

Another important aspect is whether the brand publishes annual reports on their social and environmental impact. These reports can give deeper insights into their sustainability efforts and show that they’re holding themselves accountable.

For small brands, transparency can be tricky due to competition, but COSH! encourages brands to share information with us confidentially. This allows us to verify key details, such as certificates and production locations, without putting the brand at risk of unfair competition.

COSH! works with local, more sustainable stores to find and screen brands. At the beginning of 2023, over 900 brands were screened by COSH! at the request of our members (retailers and local entrepreneurs). Depending on their subscription, retailers that joined COSH! can annually request one or two brands from us for analysis. We screen these brands’ sustainability characteristics and claims and evaluate them according to the COSH! Brand Index. (Non-clothing brands like jewellery and cosmetic brands are also analysed, although they are not yet included in the COSH! Brand Index.)

By working this way, we aim to one day cover the entire market and be a reliable platform driven by that market. Retailers can incentivise brands to operate more sustainably, prompting us to re-analyse those brands that have made additional efforts or are suspected of having lessened them. This way, COSH! stays a retail-market driven platform with up-to-date information.

There is no minimum score for brands in the COSH! Brand Index, as we consider all seven impact themes of each brand. Since different people may interpret a single rating in various ways, we always provide a detailed text alongside the COSH! Brand Index to give a clear understanding of the brand.

We add brands to the Brand Index at the request of participating retailers. This means that even brands with less emphasis on sustainability might be featured on COSH!. These brands will typically have lower scores compared to those that make more effort across the different impact themes and communicate more transparently on their websites or during interviews.
 

While it is technically possible, we have never encountered a brand that excels in every aspect of sustainability. Sustainability is a continuously evolving field. Innovations considered sustainable one year may be deemed harmful by new research the next year.

We strive to reflect these changes in the COSH! Brand Index by staying updated with industry news and innovations. The Index is constantly evolving to comply with new regulations on sustainability reporting and to combat greenwashing. However, perfection is unattainable, and mistakes can happen. This is why we are always working to improve, and greatly value your feedback, input, and links to new studies.

No, but we try to keep it as accurate as possible. 

Many rating systems or certificates look at a brand from one angle or level. For example, the Higg index (MSI) only looks at a fibre’s usage level and pollution level. Rank-a-brand strongly emphasized the energy management of production units and headquarters. Certificates related to fair production or cradle-to-cradle are often only achievable for multinationals like G‑Star and C&A. At the same time, smaller brands sometimes offer more circular products but make too small a turnover to afford such a certificate.

COSH! focuses mainly on processing information about sustainable fashion brands and wants to make it easier for consumers to make more sustainable clothing choices. To do so, we use the information we receive through our assessments, a brand’s online claims, our industry knowledge, sustainability certificates and our critical eye. When in doubt, we search databases or request factual information. COSH! cannot go on-site to check a production process or perform checks. Therefore, we check certificate numbers whenever possible.

In addition, we check whether the textile suppliers a brand works with actually produce the fabrics the brand mentions. COSH! looks critically at a brand and considers whether the sustainability story matches the clothes the brand manufactures and sells in physical shops or via other sales channels.