25 February 2026
Latin American Heritage in Every Thread
- COSH! Member Publicity
- Diversity
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This article was written by journalist Lotte Philipsen and published in Dutch by Belgian magazine knack weekend. Find the original article here.
Not only does The Bear top the lists of best television series, but after two seasons, the main character Carmy has also become a true style icon. Countless people around the world are on the waiting list for his white T‑shirt. Admittedly, actor Jeremy Allen White looks quite appetising as chef Carmy in his white shirt, but what makes this garment so exceptional?
A beautiful corner building decorated with a golden swan invites us inside. We have been guided in this direction by Marie Budde from Green Fashion Tours Berlin. She takes us on a tour of Berlin Mitte to discover some of Berlin’s more sustainable brands. The façade alone suggests that this is a place of true German Gründlichkeit.
The first thing that catches our eye in the boutique is an almost meditative video of textile machines projected onto a white wall. In the same room, there is a wooden display case with vintage T‑shirts featuring a swan logo. Long- and short-sleeved T‑shirts in various colours are temptingly dangling from a rack against the wall.
We’re just taking a closer look at the clothes when Alexander, the shop manager, suddenly asks a question that makes everyone prick up their ears: “Would anyone like to hold the type of T‑shirt that Carmy wears in The Bear?” And of course we would. When we visited Merz b. Schwanen’s flagship store, this T‑shirt was completely sold out, Alexander tells us. So we’re allowed to take a quick look, but then we have to give it back afterwards.
Carmy in the dressing room
When Courtney Wheeler, costume designer for the award-winning TV series The Bear, asked for a “high-quality T‑shirt” at the New York store Self Edge, they suggested Merz b. Schwanen. She bought a few T‑shirts from other brands, but during the fittings for the pilot episode, it became clear that Jeremy Allen White looked very, very good in the white T‑shirt from the German brand. It’s with good reason that Google suggests I click on the question: ‘Why is Carmy in The Bear so attractive?’
The garment also reflects the personality of the series’ main character. ‘Carmy is a creature of habit,’ Wheeler tells Esquire. But he is one who loves fashion and quality. He knows his style and what suits him. If he finds something he feels good in, he immediately buys several pieces. This was also the case with the white T‑shirt by Merz b. Schwanen.
The authentic craftsmanship that Carmy and his fans adore has a long history. To understand its origins, we travel back to 1911, when Balthasar Merz founded a textile factory in the Swabian Alb region of Germany.
‘We’ve never experienced anything like this before. We are very grateful that our Merz b. Schwanen brand is receiving even more positive feedback worldwide thanks to The Bear series,’ say founders Gitta and Peter Plotnicki. ‘Our production still stands for authentic craftsmanship. At first glance, our textiles may seem “simple”. That makes us even more delighted to see how many people appreciate these well-made and durable fabrics. People can sense when something has been made with dedication, passion and experience. And that’s what The Bear is all about – Carmy’s love for his work in the kitchen.’
German textile history
The authentic craftsmanship that Carmy and his fans adore has a long history. To understand its origins, we need to go back to 1911, when Balthasar Merz founded a textile factory in the German Swabian Alb. In its prime, the factory employed up to 2,000 people. For decades, it was one of the most important textile manufacturers in south-western Germany. As a result of globalisation, the factory had to close its doors in 2008 – the next generation of the Merz family pursued a different path.
This is where Gitta and Peter Plotnicki step into the story. The couple, fashion designers from Berlin, stumbled upon an old Henley shirt from 1911 at a flea market. They were immediately fascinated by the feel and texture of the soft, slightly worn, natural cotton fabric and its unique finish – something they had never felt before. The Plotnickis immediately knew that they wanted to devote their lives to making this kind of textile.
Because the textile machines spin so slowly, the fabric is exposed to little tension and is not artificially stretched.
They travelled to the Swabian Alb looking for machines that could produce this type of textile. There they came across one of the last textile manufacturers, Rudolf Loder, who surprised them with a room full of authentic loopwheel machines. Together, they dusted off the machines, eager to get them working again. When the Merz family heard about the project, they contacted Gitta and Peter Plotnicki and suggested reviving the Merz b. Schwanen story.
With that said, Gitta and Peter Plotnicki took up the challenge and continued the tradition of the Merz b. Schwanen brand. In 2011, after a year of experimenting with the loopwheelers, the Plotnickis restarted production. Thanks to the positive response from the Merz family, the Plotnickis had a century of company history at their disposal. They established their headquarters in Berlin, where the couple had been living for years, and production stayed in the Swabian Alb. They searched for and found people in this region who still knew how to work with loopwheel machines.
What distinguishes Merz b. Schwanen from other T‑shirts?
Merz b. Schwanen prides itself on producing super soft, high-quality fabrics using traditional methods. ‘Because we produce the fabrics for our traditional collection on loop wheels, they are produced in a circular shape, so there are no side seams,’ explains Mona Weber, head of communications and marketing. ‘This prevents the problem of warped fabric: after repeated washing, the side seams of a standard T‑shirt are often no longer parallel to each other, causing your T‑shirt to pull out of shape. No side seams, no warped fabric.’
Each machine has its own unique character. The reason: the oldest dates back to 1889 and the youngest to 1965, with almost 70 years of machine development in between. Furthermore, the machines are made by different manufacturers and therefore have different characteristics. Temperature also plays an important role: when the machines are still cold in the morning or in winter, they work very differently. Depending on the temperature, different stitch patterns develop. These “old ladies” are purely mechanical machines. Every adjustment still has to be done by hand, with a lot of intuition and sensitivity. With today’s modern machines, every millimetre and every milligram can be precisely controlled and continuously monitored by computers.”
Due to the slow process of the machines and the limited production capacity, manufacturing the fabric for the T-shirts takes more time.
The result, says Mona, is a sturdy and durable fabric that still feels soft and comfortable. ‘Because the machines spin so slowly, the fabric is exposed to little tension and is not artificially stretched. It is a very gentle process.’
Sustainable and well-made
Gitta and Peter Plotnicki’s dream was to combine traditional textile production with sustainability. ‘Our brand DNA is all about timeless, original, and organic basics. We make products that look good and feel good every day.’
‘Production on loop wheels is environmentally friendly because energy consumption is low and the machines can be used for a long time,’ explains Mona. ‘All our loop wheel machines are interconnected and powered by a single motor connected to old leather belts. Moreover, the factory offers good working conditions because the machines are very quiet and the parts rarely need to be replaced.’ We are reminded of the meditative video of the machines we saw in the boutique and can imagine that it is indeed a rather pleasant working environment. ‘Merz b. Schwanen’s other production sites also strive to minimise their environmental and climate impact,’ says Mona. ‘For example, our knitwear manufacturer uses self-generated solar energy.’
In terms of materials, the German brand opts for organic fibres and wool that does not involve animal cruelty. Everything is produced in Europe, which keeps transporting to a minimum. In terms of packaging, they only use recycled materials or materials that can be recycled afterwards.
The brand is also committed to ensuring its clothing has a long lifespan – an important step in its sustainability story. ‘Where possible, we repair damaged items and provide information on how customers can look after their clothing through workshops in our Berlin shop or online, as well as through our online customer service team, who are happy to share their knowledge and experience.’
Please chef, can I have another one?
The question burning on everyone’s lips: “Can I get my hands on a white 215 “classic fit” T‑shirt from Merz b. Schwanen?” Mona Weber’s answer sounds cautiously hopeful: ‘Yes, as soon as we receive the T‑shirts in our warehouse, limited drops will be released regularly. However, they always sell out within a few hours. Due to the slow process of the machines and limited production capacity, it takes more time to make the fabric for the T‑shirts. It is a big challenge for us to scale up production without putting pressure on the people who make the clothes – good things take time!
Interested? Then Mona recommends signing up for the waiting list. ‘As soon as stock is replenished, the people on the waiting list will be notified.’ Patience is rewarded, but leaving the shop empty-handed feels like a missed opportunity. I’m already buying a T‑shirt made by the old machine in a different cut and colour, without having to endure Tomorrowland ticket chaos.
Who would have thought that a Berlin boutique would teach me that Carmy “The Bear” Berzatto gives sustainability global sex appeal? Thank you, chef!
Other must-visit shops in Berlin
The REMESALT flagship store and atelier in Berlin Mitte offers genderless fashion with a queer aesthetic. The brand combines clean-cut lines, textures, patterns, vivid colours and stunning art prints in extravagant designs.
Jyoti – Fair Works offers fair fashion for people of all body types with a focus on quality, sustainability, timelessness and social purpose. All the clothing they offer is made from natural fibres like organic cotton, modal or peace-silk and you can also find artisan jewellery, accessories and home textiles in this store.
Looking for a timeless dress? Slow fashion brand AYANI creates ethically made dresses from sustainably sourced fabrics for modern women. Ani Bagdasaryan, founder of the Berlin-based brand Ani Bagdasaryan is of Armenian ancestry and for every AYANI dress sold, a donation to an impact-driven, Armenian based NGO is made to help tackle rural poverty and illiteracy.
The meyburg store and atelier is the place to be for bag lovers. Here, you will find beautiful, high-quality bags, backpacks and accessories made using upcycled leather from couches and armchairs. Nice to know: besides shopping from the collection, you can also request a custom-made piece made according to your wishes in material, size, colour and haberdashery!
Of course, Berlin has many more great local shops to explore. You can find more sustainable stores on the COSH! City map of Berlin here.
Want to be guided to the best spots in Berlin and hear the stories behind the brands and products firsthand? Book a Green Fashion Tour for your next shopping day in Berlin.
