Textile Recycling in Germany: A Microcosm of Global Challenges

At first glance, the act of clothing donation exudes a noble aura; yet, dig deeper, and one uncovers an intricate web of moral dilemmas, environmental tolls, and complex geopolitics. — a phenomenon termed ​“waste colonialism”.

Originating in a 1989 meeting of the United Nations Environmental Programme’s Basel Convention, the term ​“waste colonialism” highlighted the concerns of African nations over the dumping of hazardous waste by wealthier countries.

Waste Colonialism: Historical Context and Contemporary Implications

Translating this concept to the sartorial realm, ​“waste colonialism” describes how industrial powerhouses siphoned textile waste onto less affluent nations, fostering a damaging cycle of dependency and ecological degradation. This reflects a broader societal disconnect with our natural surroundings—a historical outcome of European colonialism, according to EuropeNow.

The interdisciplinary journal asserts that beneath contemporary labels like globalisation and entrepreneurship, vestiges of colonialism persist, exploiting natural resources and upsetting ecological harmony. Nature functions on a circular model where waste finds a new purpose, an existential reality the fashion industry struggles to adopt.

Anthropocene: Humanity’s Textile Impact

By 2025, Germany alone will accumulate nearly two million tons of textile waste yearly, amounting to over 17 kilograms per person. (Source: bvse) How and where this waste is treated decides its ecological impact and whether it contributes to colonial waste or not.

This comes at a time when our planet has entered the Anthropocene epoch, an era where humanity’s impact is the most potent force shaping the Earth. In this contemporary context, colonisation can shift from overt territorial acquisition to subtle economic coercion, potentially keeping nations in the Global South anchored to age-old power dynamics.

The Dandora dumping site in Kenya serves as a vivid testament, receiving over 12 million garments annually in the name of sustainable recycling methods.

The clothing bales, often unsorted, mainly consist of garments deemed unsellable, and the informal recycling infrastructure cannot process these vast amounts of textile refuse.

Circular fashion offers a solution to this flawed system, with textile-to-textile recycling at its core. This approach tackles various issues, from preventing garments from ending in landfills to curbing our relentless demand for new clothing items. It also retains the intrinsic worth of each garment, reducing raw material extraction and production to a minimum.

Textile Recycling: From Preference to Necessity

The 2020 textile study by the German Federal Association for Secondary Raw Materials and Waste Disposal (bvse) unveils an industry navigating both advancements and challenges.

Textile recycling stands at a pivotal juncture, and as the world watches, Germany emerges as an intriguing case study. Amid a growing tide of environmental awareness, recycling textiles has evolved from an ethical preference to a near-technological necessity.

However, despite advancements, the industry in Germany — and, by extension, globally — faces daunting challenges that require a nuanced understanding. Here, we delve into the fabric of these complexities, offering a layered understanding of the challenges ahead.

The Landscape of Textile Recycling in Germany

According to Thomas Fischer, the spokesperson for the textile recycling sector within the German Federal Association for Secondary Raw Materials and Waste Disposal (bvse), Germany has a strong and effective system for gathering used textiles. The bvse association represents approximately 1,000 mid-sized firms in Germany and Europe’s recycling and waste disposal sector, making it the most prominent industry association in both regions.

Germany’s system involves various entities, including commercial, non-profit, and local government collectors. According to the bvse, this existing setup meets the country’s requirements for a separate collection of textiles. It is consistent in its standards when entering into third-party contracts or granting permissions to these collectors, as specified by a particular regulation (§ 22 KrWG).

Fischer underscores that Germany’s textile collection mechanism is comprehensive and compliant with governmental regulations. Reliable used clothing collection boxes often have the ​“FairWertung” logo or the ​“bvse quality seal used textile collection” featured on the containers or the website of the respective collector.

Trends and Shifts in Textile Collection

A 2020 bvse study reveals a notable trend: private-sector companies (85%) involved in textile collection increasingly form collaborations (65%), especially with charitable organisations or on behalf of local authorities. 

Although many still focus on regional operations, there’s a growing movement towards nationwide efforts. This shift may respond to the heightened competition for quality material resources. The bottom line: achieving profitability is increasingly challenging.

Since 2015, Germany has witnessed an 8% increase in textile reuse, amounting to 810,000 tonnes. This accounts for 62% of total collected textiles, suggesting a positive trajectory. Most of its used textiles find new life on the second-hand market or through collections by businesses and charities. They appear in official waste statistics only when processed through Germany’s waste management.

In Germany’s waste management system, used textiles undergo various collection methods. According to a 2015 bvse study:

• Street collections, which usually involve baskets or bags and are decreasing, account for 9% (91,000 tonnes).

• Depot containers are the predominant method, representing 88% (890,000 tonnes).

• Collections through clothing stores contribute 3% (30,000 tonnes).

The Paradox of Rising Collections and Declining Textile Quality

The past seven years have seen an enigmatic trend. While Germany has successively reduced clothing containers to minimise the intake of inferior-quality garments, the volume of textiles collected has risen nonetheless. Thomas Fischer of bvse remarks, ​“Merely two to four percent of old clothes collected by private firms are resold as second-hand items within Germany.”

This growth in collection volume presents a challenge. Even as more textiles find reuse, the associated sorting and processing costs have surged, reflecting the deteriorating quality of the collected textiles.

“Due to the subpar quality of fast fashion, an 8% uptick in textile reuse was only possible for collectors through rigorous specialisation and immense cost constraints. Unfortunately, these pressures haven’t led to proportional revenue gains. Apparel sourced from low-wage nations overwhelmingly saturates the fashion landscape. Brands and retailers are locked in a fierce price war, predominantly in the budget-friendly tier, vying for consumers’ attention. This competition often sacrifices textile quality, paving the way for a surge in cheaper synthetic materials.” (Source: bvse)

Before the sorting phase, the textile recycling industry identified increased contaminants and impurities, comprising around 11% of the entire collection amount. Consequently, the industry grapples with escalating disposal costs for unrecyclable textiles, which have doubled since 2015 (Source: bvse).

Declining Rates of Upcycling and Material Recycling

Concurrently, upcycled or recycled textiles have dwindled by 7%. The metrics for material recycling are even more alarming. According to a 2018 textile study, material recycling constituted a mere 12% of recycled textiles, a significant drop from 17% just three years prior. (Source: bvse)

If economic survival for textile recyclers is becoming something comparable to a tightrope walk, what will this mean for the future of textile recycling in Germany? Will excessive consumerism result in a silent collapse of free textile recycling?

Insights from the 2020 Textile Recycling Study

In Germany’s realm of textile recycling, the numbers speak volumes about the untapped potential within the industry. According to the 2020 study, the material flows for the recycling potential of clothing and household textiles amounted to more than 1 million tonnes.

This figure breaks down to reveal the current uses of these textiles:

In 2020, reused textiles decreased by 7% compared to 2015. Recycling rates have dropped to 20%, 3% less than in 2015. A noticeable trend is the increase in thermal ​“recycling” by 2%, while material recycling has declined by 5%. One reason for the rise in thermal recycling might be the growing use of mostly petroleum-based chemical fibres, which have a higher calorific value. This coincides with a drop in the quality of textiles. 

Another possible reason is that material recycling has become more challenging and, thus, less profitable. The proportion of waste identified during sorting has doubled since 2015 to 4% of the total. These statistics underscore the vital need for comprehensive strategies to make the most of every fibre and elevate the role of recycling in the textile industry.

Challenges in Statistical Transparency and Reporting

An important note on these numbers is that the Federal Statistical Office provides domestic production figures, which are not exhaustive. These figures often exclude data from smaller businesses and specific production sizes.

Additionally, some information remains undisclosed to safeguard business secrets, a point highlighted in the bvse 2015 textile study.

Also, companies can opt out of the official statistics, meaning that the data probably does not capture all businesses, even those that meet the specified criteria.

The available statistics provide foundational insight but fail to depict a clear and comprehensive view of the German recycling industry, with some statistics raising question marks. 

Nevertheless, juxtaposed with a significant surge in clothing influx, the observed decline in textile recycling is alarming. As material recycling is crucial for generating recycled fibres, the doubling of sorting waste to 52,000 tonnes since 2015 starkly emphasises the scale of the challenge.

From Germany’s Closets to…Landfills?

The bvse paints a picture of Germany’s surplus of high-quality used clothing being in great demand across Eastern Europe, Asia, and Africa. Yet, the stark images of bulging landfills spanning Ghana to Uganda contradict this narrative. Remarkably, out of the 50 largest waste sites in the world, 19 are located in Africa, predominantly in Sub-Saharan regions.

A haunting visual comes from the Korle Lagoon in Accra, the capital of Ghana. A jagged mound rises about 20 metres, standing by the water, with cattle meandering on top. Astonishingly, this isn’t a natural hill but a landfill. A staggering 60% of its content is made up of discarded clothing. 

Accra receives around 15 million used clothes weekly from places like the UK, Europe, North America, and Australia. These flood the city’s expansive clothing market. About 40% of these clothes are of such subpar quality that they are deemed valueless upon arrival, leading them straight to the landfill or surroundings.

In 2012, the German Federal Government provided its official statement on the moral intricacies of exporting secondhand attire. It suggested that sending used clothes to countries in the Global South is a vital trade arrangement, offering them affordable, high-quality garments that outperform their more expensive, local textile productions.

It suggests that countries like Kenya or Uganda, depending on (what is claimed to be) primarily secondhand cotton garments, isn’t a choice but a necessity, as these imported clothes fulfil 60 to 80% of their clothing needs. (Source: Deutscher Bundestag – 17. Wahlperiode, Drucksache 17/8690) Thomas Fischer underscores that nations like Rwanda indeed depend on quality secondhand garments to meet their market demands.

“There is no competitive textile industry in many countries, and if there is, its traditional products are not what many consumers want. They want affordable and fashionable European clothing.”

Moreover, Fischer points out that the real issue isn’t the influx of second-hand garments from Europe but rather the deluge of poorly-made synthetic attire from Asia inundating African markets.

However, the realities of Korle Lagoon speak of unbridled consumption, the remains also arriving from countries such as Germany. Europeans are equally captivated as Shein and Temu redefine the fashion landscape through relentless marketing, constant collection releases, and low prices. Intriguingly, these swift and sensational fashion brands appear to be carving a path to Africa, powered by European spending, amongst others. Their pieces, enduring only a handful of washes before either coming apart or fitting poorly, are quickly disposed of and remain unworn after entering African markets. 

Fischer continues, ​“The current global crises show that consumers do not save on fashion as a whole, only on individual clothing items. However, two high-quality T‑shirts have a longer life cycle than five low-quality ones. Sufficiency is simply not factored into consumerism.”

However, doesn’t imported clothing, therefore, suppress potentially emerging markets? How can consumer demand be cultivated for locally produced attire? Fischer elaborates, ​“Beyond just market dynamics, a burgeoning local textile industry necessitates a stable political backdrop to attract investors, essential utilities such as water, electricity, and sewage for basic infrastructure, and crucially, a solution to the significant infrastructure shortcomings. Establish the right conditions, and the market will develop.”

Behind the Numbers: The African Landfill Crisis and German Exports

The German government’s stance—denying any adverse effect of its used clothing exports on the textile industries of recipient nations is puzzling. This position might stem from a perceived limited liability: once textiles reach sorting centres in Poland or the Netherlands, Germany considers its responsibility fulfilled. However, the formidable 104,000 tonnes of textiles labelled as waste, sent from Germany to Africa in 2010, starkly contradicts this assertion.

Fischer observes that, in contrast to Germany, which tends to sort its outgoing textiles for economic viability, countries like the United States often export without scrutiny. ​“To be economically viable, they must be able to sell about 60 % of the clothing they collect and sort. Everything else costs our members money because every step of the sorting process is manual and time-consuming. Clothes deemed unsellable need to be properly disposed of, which also costs money.”

The ​“Dead White Man’s Clothes” initiative unveils the deep-seated issues within the global textile trade. This system, in which subpar garments are conveniently shipped out of view, needs urgent reformation. The cycle of producing, discarding, and subsequently offloading lower-grade textiles abroad cannot continue. This raises an intricate question: Where does the ultimate responsibility lie? Is it with the exporting governments, the textile producers, the end consumers, or a combination of these entities?

Market Dynamics and Regulatory Environment

According to the bvse report and contrary to expectations, the entrance of public waste management authorities into the textile collection landscape has neither stabilised nor reduced waste collection charges. Adding to the dilemma is the illegal trade in textiles, which continues to escape effective regulation due to overburdened administrative bodies and the infamous shortage of skilled workers plaguing the German economy. 

Fast fashion exacerbates the situation, flooding the market with cheap, low-quality textiles and hindering low-cost and efficient recycling. The German Circular Economy Act (KrWG) outlines a waste hierarchy prioritising reuse. However, the pressing question is whether the act’s goals are realistic given the multi-faceted challenges discussed.

2022 Textile Trends: A Look at Germany’s Exports

In 2022, Germany’s exports of used clothing and textile goods declined, with figures standing at 462,500 tons. This was a 10.7% decrease compared 2021. Per individual, it translates to 5.5 kilograms of used textiles sent overseas, with a significant chunk destined for Poland and the Netherlands, where these are sorted and exported further. (Source: Statistisches Bundesamt)

Zooming into specifics, about one-third of these textile exports were destined for neighbouring Poland (16.9%) and the Netherlands (15.2%). Other notable destinations included Belgium, the United Arab Emirates, and Turkey.

On a global scale, based on 2021 data from UN Comtrade, Germany ranked as the second-largest exporter of used textiles. The U.S. took the lead, while China claimed the third spot. Major global importers for that year were Pakistan, the UAE, and Malaysia.

In examining these trade routes, it’s intriguing to note the lack of transparency regarding the ultimate destinations of these used textiles. While countries like Poland, the Netherlands, and the UAE are notable importers, these textiles are subsequently re-exported.

Global Resonance: Germany as a Case Study

Globally, less than 1% of textile waste undergoes fibre-to-fibre recycling, owing to multiple barriers such as collection rates and sorting challenges. For instance, current collection rates in Europe hover around 30 – 35%, and most of the unsorted waste gets exported, sent on month-long journeys to a myriad of destinations, often to end up in toxic landfills halfway across the globe. (Source: McKinsey & Company)

The Fast Fashion Epidemic

Germany’s issue with fast fashion is echoed worldwide as consumers find themselves amidst a frenzy of consumption, increasingly opting for disposable, trendy items. This contributes to a global surge of low-quality textiles that challenge traditional recycling methods. Countries grapple with the environmental repercussions of disposable clothing winding up in landfills and ecosystems worldwide.

Regulatory Patchwork

The German Closed Substance Cycle Waste Management Act (KrWG) sets forth policies for waste prevention, recycling, and other methods of waste treatment, including textile waste. It emphasises creating a closed-loop economy where products, including textiles, can be reused or recycled effectively.

The worldwide myriad of regulatory frameworks, each tailored to its jurisdiction’s unique social, economic, and environmental conditions, results in complex challenges arising when trying to coordinate waste management on an international scale. The lack of uniformity makes it difficult to establish global best practices, share resources efficiently, or even track and compare performance metrics accurately.

For instance, what qualifies as ​“recyclable” in one jurisdiction might not meet the criteria in another, leading to confusion and inefficiencies.

Because profitability dominates most decision-making processes, and large-scale textile recycling remains elusive, opportunities for global advancements in waste management and resource conservation are being missed, making it harder to address these issues cohesively and effectively.

Technological Hurdles

Despite its advanced technological landscape, Germany faces significant hurdles in textile recycling, reflecting worldwide challenges. The disparity is especially evident in the Global South, where countries brim with potential for textile recycling due to burgeoning consumer markets but often stumble due to inadequate infrastructures.

From Waste to Weave: Panipat’s Textile Transformation Journey

Panipat, a city in northern India, emerges as a remarkable example. Termed the ​“cast-off capital of the world,” it’s a nexus for recycling textiles discarded by the West. Every day, enormous quantities of these clothes find their way to Panipat, where they’re ingeniously transformed: recycled, spun into new yarn, and woven into fresh fabrics. While conserving resources and providing local employment, this cycle underscores a need.

In Panipat, the recycling techniques, while innovative, underscore the urgent need for advanced and sustainable recycling technologies to establish and expand future recycling centres. The majority of their processes are manual, and the multifaceted materials in contemporary garments hinder efficient recycling.

Conversely, expertise is plentiful in technologically advanced nations like Germany, but the infrastructure struggles to address the complexities of today’s textile waste, from mixed-fabric items to the fashion industry’s prolific output.

While the Global South boasts a vast and skilled workforce, the Global North grapples with labour shortages, relying heavily on technology. This dynamic has led to the North capitalising on the South’s affordable labour while the South remains reliant on the North’s technological and financial support.

Economic Hesitations: The Global Hurdles of Textile Recycling

McKinsey & Company’s study, ​“Scaling textile recycling in Europe — turning waste into value,” posits a promising prospect. An investment spanning €6 to €7 billion by 2030 could steer fibre-to-fibre recycling to manage 18 – 26% of gross textile waste. The potential rewards? A promising profit margin ranging from €1.5 to €2.2 billion, environmental benefits, and an estimated 15,000 new jobs, with a reduction of CO2 emissions by around 4 million tons. Given an anticipated return on investment of 55 to 70%, it raises the question: why the hesitation in transitioning to a more circular textile model?

The impediments German recycling entities face, from waning textile quality to escalating operational costs, resonate globally. In many nations, the immediate economic incentives of textile recycling seem elusive, leading to a cautious approach to investments and policy initiatives. 

At the heart of this issue is inadequate funding for research and development within recycling industries worldwide, limiting scalability or forcing them to navigate thin profit margins. In addition, their viability is often tethered to the unpredictable economic dynamics of their respective regions.

Economic and Social Implications of Transitioning Away from Fast Fashion

Setting up a robust recycling infrastructure is not just about environmental sustainability; it’s also about providing a cushion for countries heavily reliant on the fast fashion industry, like Bangladesh. In 2019, garment manufacturing contributed roughly 84% of Bangladesh’s export earnings. This industry, powered by affordable labour and lenient environmental standards, represents the livelihood of millions. If fast fashion were to see a sudden downturn, the consequences for Bangladesh would be dire.

The many garment workers, already living on thin margins, would face intensifying hardship. Therefore, corporations that have gained from this structure owe it to these nations to think ahead.

The current textile and garment trade paradigm is eerily reminiscent of historical patterns of exploitation. While Panipat is heralded as an exemplary ​‘waste-to-wonder’ model, the possible spectre of a new-age ​“recycling colonialism” emerges. Much like its fashion counterpart, the recycling sector’s profitability leans heavily on the availability of manual labour, apart from technological advancement. Here, scalability is still governed by the same principle: the cheaper the labour, the higher the profit margins. This problematic dependence could perpetuate the age-old exploitative framework. 

We could risk shipping recyclables to these nations for repurposing instead of dealing with our textile waste within our own borders. In this case, the luxury of manual labour is reduced to factory framing, and the cycle continues. Yet, the root of the issue remains intact: overconsumption of unethical and environmentally detrimental clothing.

Society’s Cognitive Disconnect

Global eco-consciousness is on the rise, but tangible action often falls short. In Germany, the allure of immediate convenience often overshadows sustainable food and clothing consumption practices.

However, a forsa Institute survey paints a contrasting picture of intent. Surveying over 1,000 individuals, the findings revealed:

The Ethos of Clothing Donations

• 86% of Germans donate clothes, indicating a strong desire for sustainable clothing disposal.

• Of these donors, 94% meticulously ensure they give away only wearable items, promoting a reuse cycle.

• The motivations are diverse: 85% donate to offer garments a second life; 88% to support charities, and environmental considerations drive 54%.

The societal value of clothing donation is deeply ingrained. 99% of those surveyed don’t see old clothes as waste. To them, donating clothes is akin to shopping (76%) or supporting circularity through recycling paper and glass (20%).

Yet, a cognitive disconnect clearly exists. While Germans are inclined to donate, many still favour fast fashion. This is evident with H&M’s €3.2 billion sales, making Germany its biggest market, and Zalando’s prominence in e‑commerce. (Source: Vogue Business)

A Global Mandate for Sustainable and Just Textile Recycling

Germany’s intricate journey through textile recycling vividly portrays the systemic challenges thwarting meaningful progress. This journey is not merely a tale of a singular nation’s challenges but emblematic of the global complexities surrounding textile waste and sustainability. Germany’s experience is one of many mirrors highlighting the urgency of the task at hand and underscores the multifaceted nature of potential solutions.

However, for genuine transformation to manifest, it’s imperative to go beyond mere infrastructure and policy adjustments. The heart of the matter lies in nurturing an informed and engaged public that champions sustainable consumption over a prevalent wear-and-discard culture. This, coupled with authentic commitments from industry stakeholders and proactive policies, is the triunity essential for ushering in a new era of textile circularity.

Fischer states, ​“Six decades in the arena have made us stalwarts, leading the charge towards transformation. Yet, while our collection system stands robust, innovation is our missing link. We have refined processes in the past ten years, but scaling new technology in the face of multifibre textiles has slowed development. This is why lighthouse projects like Renewcell in Sweden are so essential. We need solutions within EU borders to achieve a sustainable transformation and implement genuine EPR. It’s high time garment manufacturers take responsibility, creating higher quality garments focusing on single fibres and channelling investments into pioneering the future of textile recycling.”

But a broader perspective reveals another essential dimension to this discourse: the imperative for equitable power dynamics. The prevailing system, marked by waste generation in the Global North and subsequent disposal in the South, underscores a deeply entrenched imbalance.

Fischer comments, ​“The surging clothing volume demands sophisticated sorting and recycling. For every garment, we must critically ask: Who will wear this next? All countries have to tailor their exports to the respective importing country.” To tackle this, we need united efforts and a deliberate attempt to redefine prevailing power dynamics, ensuring each stakeholder has an equitable voice in determining the way ahead, irrespective of location or economic standing.

The strategies highlighted by McKinsey—be it setting ambitious targets, fostering genuine collaboration, securing transition funding, or initiating public-sector interventions — are not mere suggestions but necessities. And as the clock ticks on our planet’s health, the German narrative stands as both a lesson and a call to action, urging us to prioritise a just and equitable global textile recycling strategy before it’s too late.