11 September 2024
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In their latest report, Fashion’s Plastic Paralysis, the Changing Markets Foundation uncovers alarming trends in the fashion industry’s use of synthetic fibres and the increasing reliance on fossil fuel-derived fabrics like polyester.
In April 2024, the Changing Markets Foundation and its partners – Clean Clothes Campaign, Fashion Revolution, No Plastic in My Sea and the Plastic Soup Foundation – wrote to 50 global clothing brands and retailers. The results of this questionnaire and research highlight the severity of the situation, with global fashion companies denying the seriousness of plastic pollution, distracting both consumers and regulators with false solutions and actively stalling meaningful efforts to address it, particularly in the case of microplastic pollution.
Below, we break down the findings and explain what they mean for the future of fashion.
Global brands are doubling down on synthetic fibres
According to the report, 11 out of 23 global brands confirmed an increase in their use of fossil fuel-based textiles, with only three reporting a reduction. Fast fashion brands like Zara, SHEIN, and Boohoo are some of the biggest culprits. SHEIN, in particular, uses 81% synthetic materials, while Zara increased its use of synthetics by 20% since the last survey. Polyester remains popular due to its low cost and versatility, but its environmental impact is severe, contributing to microplastic pollution and waste.
Fashion is at a critical juncture, with major brands doubling down on the fast fashion model, flooding the market with disposable, polluting fabrics. These companies continue to bet big on plastic fibres, showing little intention to change and resorting to tactics borrowed from the fossil fuel industry to distract and delay real progress. While regulators are beginning to act, they must remain vigilant. We need strong, decisive action to steer fashion away from its dependency on fossil fuels and towards creating high-quality clothes that people want to keep for longer. Urska Trunk, Senior campaign manager Change Makers Foundation
Delay and distract: mimicking tactics from the tobacco and fossil fuel industries
One of the most troubling revelations in the Fashion’s Plastic Paralysis report is how major fashion brands are adopting tactics from the tobacco and fossil fuel industries to delay meaningful regulation. Much like these industries, fast fashion companies are using distraction techniques to stall change, including calls for more research or pushing responsibility onto consumers through initiatives like microplastic filters for washing machines.
This mirrors the fossil fuel industry’s long-standing strategy of funding research to downplay their impact while delaying regulations. The report warns that without stricter laws, fashion will continue to pollute under the guise of sustainability, further entrenching the industry’s dependence on synthetic fibres.
The myth of recycled synthetics
The push for recycled materials, mostly from plastic bottles, is not the solution many brands claim it to be. While it may seem eco-friendly, it doesn’t address the root issue: overproduction and the continued reliance on fossil-based fibres. The report highlights that brands using recycled synthetics are simply shifting the problem rather than solving it.
Synthetic fibres from textiles have become one of the most prevalent types of microplastic pollutants in the environment and are being identified in numerous human organs. So heavy is their use by manufacturers and so heavy is the pollution that it is fair to say that fashion itself is becoming an environmental and human health risk. Dr Sedat Gündoğdu, marine pollution expert
Greenwashing in fashion
A second concerning claim in the report is that some EU regulations could inadvertently greenwash fast-fashion brands. The anti-greenwashing laws, intended to curb misleading sustainability claims, might allow brands using synthetic fibres to appear more environmentally friendly than those producing organic cotton or wool garments. This misleading comparison underscores the need for stronger, more transparent regulations.
What does this mean for consumers?
The continued use of synthetics by major brands means that microplastics are entering our oceans — and even our bodies—at an alarming rate. Microplastics from polyester and nylon are now being found in human organs, raising health concerns. Consumers should remain sceptical of vague sustainability claims, especially when they come from fast fashion giants who have no concrete plans to reduce their synthetic use.
At COSH!, we encourage consumers to look beyond greenwashed promises and make more conscious fashion choices. Opting for higher-quality, durable garments, supporting brands with transparent sustainability efforts, and reducing reliance on fast-fashion are steps we can all take toward a cleaner, more ethical fashion industry.
Ready to make a change?
If you’re a brand or retailer looking to shift away from harmful substances and synthetic materials, now is the time to act. Book a meeting with our CSR expert, Sabine, to learn how your business can reduce its environmental impact and avoid the pitfalls of greenwashing. Sabine can guide you with many things, from selecting safer materials to implementing genuinely sustainable practices and complying with recently implemented legislations.
Get in touch today to start your journey towards a cleaner, more responsible fashion future!
