Climate-Resilient and Versatile: Linen, the Future-Proof Fabric for Fashion

Linen is a versatile and timeless fabric with a rich history spanning thousands of years. From its ancient origins to its prominent role in the contemporary fashion industry, linen has maintained its unrivalled position as a luxurious and desirable textile. Let’s dive into its historical roots, importance, and enduring presence in today’s fashion industry.

An Ancient Textile

Linen’s story begins in ancient times, with evidence of its existence dating back over 10,000 years. 

According to Sylvie De Coster, conservator of Kortrijk’s Texture, Museum of Flax and Textile, the oldest flax fibres were found in the Dzudzuana Cave (Caucasus) and are 32,000 years old, more than 20,000 years before the development of agriculture. The oldest scrap of linen comes from Turkey and was woven 9,000 years ago, 3,000 years before people began wearing woollen clothing.

Numerous myths and stories spanning the globe demonstrate the deep cultural significance of linen in antiquity. These tales were deeply interwoven with humanity’s quest for meaning and its attempts at unravelling the complexities of our existence. Linen, derived from the flax plant, was cultivated in ancient civilisations, including Egypt, Mesopotamia, and China. Ancient Egyptians particularly held linen in high regard, using it extensively for clothing, burial shrouds, and even as currency.

Mythologies and Folklore

Ancient Egypt

The magnificent stories surrounding linen have endured centuries. The ancient Egyptians believed that the goddess Isis taught them the art of spinning flax into linen thread, whereas Tayet was the Egyptian goddess of weaving. She was also associated with the mummification process; her name is thought to come from the Egyptian word for shroud. It is said that she also wove the curtain that hung at the entrance to the embalming tent.

Due to these associations, she was eventually linked to the linen bandages used to cover the mummified remains of Pharaohs and to protect and cover injuries. Tayet also became the goddess of purity and cleanliness. Therefore, linen was considered a sacred fabric associated with purity and rebirth and was consequently used in mummification rituals. It was used to wrap the bodies of the deceased, symbolising the renewal and preservation of life. Its association with purity and righteousness can also be traced to Christianity and the Old Testament, where linen came to exemplify the fabric used to wrap the body of Jesus Christ.

Ancient Greece

In Greek mythology, the story of Penelope, the wife of Odysseus, is often associated with linen. Penelope is known for her loyalty and ingenuity during Odysseus’ long absence. She weaved a burial shroud for Odysseus during the day and unravelled it at night to delay her numerous suitors. This story symbolises the resourcefulness and patience represented by the weaving of linen.

As a dominant fabric in ancient Greece, it was even used in armour, called linothorax. The armour was made by laminating several layers of linen with simple glue made from flax seeds or rabbit skins. It was exceptionally strong, which archaeologists have proved through rigorous testing. Archaeologists believe that linothorax would have held up to the weaponry used in battle during Alexander the Great’s time.

European Folklore

In Norse mythology, linen is associated with the goddess Frigg, Odin’s wife and Asgard’s queen. Frigg was known for her skills in spinning and weaving. It was believed that she wove the clouds from flax fibres and used them to create the sky. Linen was thus linked to the celestial realm and the power of creation. It was also believed to possess protective and magical properties in Celtic folklore, often used in rituals and ceremonies to symbolise purity and spirituality. Linen garments were considered powerful talismans that could ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune.

The reverence for linen in these narratives reflects the historical importance of the fibre woven into the fabric of ancient cultures and belief systems. Its association with purity, protection, and divine craftsmanship are still prevalent today.

Derived from the flax plant, its fibres make it one of the oldest known textiles made from a natural plant source. Its strength, durability, and breathability make it an ideal fabric choice in warmer and humid climates. Its moisture-wicking properties and airflow help keep the body cool.

Linen and Cotton: The Rise of Vast Empires

The Introduction of Cotton

The linen industry significantly shaped countries and their respective cultures, including Belgium, Germany, and the Netherlands. Eastern European countries such as Poland, Lithuania, Latvia, and Estonia were equally defined. A vital trading good, it brought prosperity and revolutionary expansion, transforming villages into urban centres and attracting merchants and traders across Europe.

The production of linen in Belgium fostered economic growth and influenced the region’s artistic and cultural traditions. The decentralised production of linen before the advent of industrialisation fundamentally supported rural economies. It contributed to the cultural heritage through traditional weaving techniques, embroidery styles, and regional textile traditions.

“From the 13^th century onwards, flax was the heart of the agricultural economy of the whole County of Flanders, the foundation of its society and culture. Our forefathers would find it incomprehensible that most of us have never seen a flax field or have the slightest notion of what a flax plant looks like,” says Sylvie De Coster, conservator of Kortrijk’s Texture, Museum of Flax and Textile.

Flemish linen found its way to a global customer base, with Spain being its largest consumer. Luxury fabrics such as damask were immensely popular among the nobility and the bourgeoisie, while the slaves of the New World wore basic linen fabrics.

While the importance of linen persisted throughout history, its popularity experienced fluctuations over the centuries. With the introduction of cotton and its global availability and distribution, a shift in consumer preferences and textile production initiated a systemic realignment. This had a profound impact on linen production and cultural frameworks. 

From Cottage Industry to Industrialisation

Cotton was significantly less labour-intensive to produce compared to linen. The mechanisation of cotton production with the introduction of the cotton gin during the Industrial Revolution in the 18^th century further accelerated its availability and affordability. It transformed from a cottage industry to a hyper-efficient industrialised complex. Cotton fabrics also offered different characteristics compared to linen. While linen is known for its crispness and breathability, cotton is softer, more pliable, and often perceived as more comfortable to wear.

Additionally, cotton cultivation thrived in regions with favourable climates and soil conditions, such as the American South. This led to the establishment of large-scale cotton plantations and a subsequent increase in cotton production. Cotton subsequently became more accessible and affordable for consumers. A highly political plant, cotton is argued to have shaped capitalism and defined global power structures to what they are to date. The historian Sven Beckert depicts how a global empire of cotton emerged as the central historical cause of the modern capitalist world economy, driven by slavery and colonisation.

As cotton gained popularity, linen faced challenges in maintaining its market share. The labour-intensive nature of linen production involved the time-consuming processes of cultivating flax, retting, drying, spinning, and weaving. The numerous steps involved made the end product more expensive compared to cotton. Therefore, linen’s association with luxury and high-quality clothing persisted. Yet it became less accessible to the general population due to the availability and affordability of cotton.

Revival of an Ancient and Rare Fabric

However, it’s important to note that while linen may have lost some of its dominance as a mainstream fabric, it continued to have its niche and retained importance in specific applications. In recent years, with the growing interest in sustainable and eco-friendly textiles, linen has experienced a resurgence. Its natural and renewable qualities and increased awareness of its environmental benefits have led to a revival of linen in the fashion industry. This renaissance has allowed linen to regain some of its importance and popularity in the market. Yet, globally, linen represents less than 1% of the world’s textiles consumed.

With eco-consciousness and ethical fashion gaining traction, linen has become a favoured fabric choice. It is biodegradable, renewable, and requires significantly fewer resources than other textiles. Its hypoallergenic and anti-bacterial properties also aid in resisting the accumulation of allergens such as dust mites. This makes it a suitable choice for individuals with sensitive skin or allergies.

Flax requires little to no water or pesticides compared to cotton, making it an environmentally friendly alternative.

Furthermore, linen production is a zero-waste fibre, as every part of the flax plant can be utilised.

“Every part of the plant is used: the fibres for textiles, the seeds for linseed oil (used in food, cosmetics, paint, varnish, linoleum, cattle feed), or the shives (woody parts) as litter in animal stables or in building materials,” says conservator Sylvie De Coster. 

To promote the shives and educate the public on their versatility, Texture, the Museum of Flax and Textiles recently launched a video campaign about four ways in which the shives are being used, often seen as a by-product of the fibre, yet holding immense potential.

To date, it is still considered a labour-intensive fabric. Transforming flax fibres into linen involves several steps that require skilled labour and attention to detail.

Linen: From Seed to Fabric

Sustainability Defines the Laborious Processing of Flax

The production of linen begins with the cultivation of flax plants. Flax requires specific soil conditions and a precise harvesting process. Once the flax plants are harvested, they undergo a process called retting. The outer stalks are soaked in water to break down the pectin that holds the fibres together. This process can be done through dew retting (where the flax is left in the fields) or water retting (where the flax is submerged in water). Both methods require monitoring and proper timing to achieve the desired quality of fibres.

Afterwards, the flax stalks are dried and then undergo the process of threshing, which separates the flax fibres from the straw. Threshing can be done mechanically or manually, requiring expertise to ensure the fibres remain intact.

Once the fibres are separated, they go through a process called scutching, where the straw and woody matter are removed. This is followed by combing or hackling, further refining and straightening the fibres, and removing any remaining impurities.

The final step in linen production is spinning and weaving the fibres into fabric. Linen yarn is typically spun using a technique called wet spinning. This involves adding moisture to the threads to improve their pliability. Weaving linen fabric requires specialised looms and skilled weavers to create the desired patterns and textures.

The Value of Craftsmanship

The labour-intensive nature of linen production is due to the complexity of these processes and the meticulous attention required at each stage. While advancements in technology have made certain aspects of linen production more efficient, many steps remain laborious and require expertise to ensure the quality and integrity of the fabric.

It’s worth noting that the complexities of linen production contribute to its perceived value and the appreciation for the craftsmanship involved. The attention to detail and handcrafted nature of linen fabrics often add to their appeal, cementing its stronghold as an exclusive textile in the fashion industry.

Linen: A Regenerative Fibre

As a fabric, linen holds significant potential considering the climate crisis due to its environmentally friendly and sustainable characteristics. It is a biodegradable fabric that can naturally decompose without leaving harmful residues behind. This characteristic is crucial in addressing the issue of textile waste. Furthermore, linen is highly durable, with garments often lasting for numerous years, reducing the need for frequent replacements. This contributes to a more sustainable and circular fashion system.

Flax is relatively adaptable to various climate conditions. Its ability to thrive in cooler climates makes it a suitable alternative for areas where cotton cultivation may be challenging. It requires less irrigation and can grow in regions where water scarcity is a concern. This increases its viability and importance with the worsening climate crisis.

Flax: an answer to the climate crisis?

Flax’s regenerative qualities are manifold. Flax plants have the potential to sequester carbon dioxide from the atmosphere during their growth. According to the European Confederation of Flax and Hemp, one hectare of flax each year retains 3.7 tons of CO2. Technically requiring no pesticides or fertilisers inevitably contributes to healthier ecosystems and reduces the risk of chemical exposure for farmers and surrounding communities. 

Additionally, it promotes soil health due to its deep root system, which helps prevent soil erosion and improves soil structure. The cultivation of flax also supports biodiversity by providing habitats for beneficial insects and wildlife.

As a natural fibre, linen can contribute to carbon neutrality or even carbon negativity when considering the entire life cycle of the fabric. Additionally, its versatility extends beyond clothing. It can be used in home textiles, upholstery, and other interior applications. By incorporating linen into various products, the sustainability benefits of the fabric can be extended beyond fashion, including livestock feed, construction materials, soaps and food products. This reduces the overall environmental footprint of multiple industries. 

Yet, the production methods ultimately define its sustainable characteristics, such as whether it is dew retted or chemically retted. In other words, traditional manufacturing practices are ultimately more environmentally friendly but require skilled workers and patience. Efficiency and speed have an ecological price tag that is far more costly in the long run.

In addition, ​“increasingly scorching and dry summers throughout Europe are requiring flax growers to experiment with winter flax and hemp in order mitigate risks of crop failure,” says Sylvie De Coster, conservator of the Museum of Flax and Textiles in Kortrijk.

Trademarks as a Means of Heritage Protection

The ecological benefits also directly affect those cultivating and processing the plant and fibre. A lower dependency on pesticides and chemicals in flax cultivation means the workers are exposed to fewer harmful substances. Its reliance on manual production also means it can provide economic opportunities, particularly in rural and agricultural communities.

Therefore, linen production directly preserves traditional craftsmanship and skills, preserving communities’ ancient cultural heritage and sustaining local traditions and knowledge.

The European Confederation of Flax and Hemp (CELC) was established to boost awareness and promote European linen. This organisation brought forth the MASTERS OF LINEN registered trademark. This trademark signifies excellence for linen 100% Made in EUROPE, from field to yarn to fabric.

Linen: A Gateway To Reviving Local Economies

Most flax for fibre is still produced in Western Europe, particularly in Belgium and France. In Belgium alone, over 3.300 flax fields have been mapped out by Texture, the Museum for Flax and Textiles and can even be viewed online. However, most of the fibre travels to China or India for textile processing as well as Poland and Italy. China’s and India’s low labour costs, skilled workers and state-of-the-art machinery make them the leading linen producers. More than 70% of linen is used in the manufacture of clothing. 

Having profoundly shaped European cultures and communities, linen’s crucial historical role and dependency on intergenerational knowledge transfer are being reframed. Localised projects project this historical fibre and age-old traditions in a modern context.

The Linen Project

In the Netherlands, the Dutch The Linen Project is investigating and working towards reactivating the economic viability of small-scale, local flax cultivation and linen production.

The project particularly focuses on community building and reviving the local linen economy. Their Shared Stewardship community, initiated via an open call by The Linen project in early 2020, profoundly engages in the hands-on journey of cultivating textiles, objects, and garments collectively from seed. Embracing the principle of commoning, they come together to forge a new economic, social, and cultural paradigm.

Throughout the year, the Linen Stewards, as a united group, nurture the growth of flax, gather the harvest, and meticulously process the fibres. They employ manual techniques to spin linen yarns, skillfully knit or weave linen textiles, and shape various objects, ultimately crafting unique pieces for personal use. Each step of these processes is intentionally carried out by hand. Within the community, shared stewardship prevails, granting members the authority to make decisions considering the well-being of all individuals and entities affected by their endeavours.

lokaltextil

In Leipzig, Germany, lokaltextil defines flax and linen as an educational and cultural medium to convey complex content. The network cooperates with scientists who illustrate new possibilities for fibre decomposition.

The topic is given the necessary depth and complexity through collaboration with artists, designers, craftsmen, and women. In partnership with cultural and educational institutions, lokalextil introduced linen cultivation to Leipzig’s city centre on a piece of land, inviting the general public to partake through observation and discussion.

The complete and elaborate process from seed to textile is carried out through activation, instigation and self-empowerment to self-experiment. These inclusive and localised projects allow everyone to explore where clothes and textiles seem to be taken so much for granted come from. In this case, 45 sixth-graders and their teachers created a flax field in front of their school building for observation, promoting understanding and self-efficacy.

For lokaltextil, the path is the goal, and the experiences made are aesthetic research, which they hope could ultimately lead to the industry awakening to the fact that it would perhaps be more sensible to grow more climate crisis-resilient crops such as linen.

Flax: A Symbol of Earth Reparation

As humanity confronts its inherent separation from the natural world and its positioning as a species, flax can act as a catalyst and reparative plant. It can rekindle our connection to the earth, its inhabitants, and each other. The process of creating linen was a cooperative one. It demanded numerous hands, varying skills and experience, fostering community cohesion and collectiveness rather than individualisation.

A case study on the Sri Lankan handloom industry highlighted that the craft practice of handloom weaving is one of the potential avenues for achieving sustainability within the fashion industry. Craftsmanship inherently promotes fair-trade principles and zero-waste practices by reframing value by integrating the creative process into the value chain.

In light of the challenges, reinvigorating local economies is essential in achieving economic and spiritual resilience. It enables shifting globally oriented economies towards place-based, human-scale activity, simultaneously addressing our current crises. Natural, biodegradable textiles such as linen can pave a regenerative pathway. They can provide a glimpse of what a craft and earth-focused fashion industry could look like.