Lee

Lee has its own code of conduct with social and environmental conditions that they impose on all the manufacturers they work with. This code of conduct is based on the European Union’s Global Compliance Principles. When a manufacturer does not follow these conditions, Lee terminates the partnership.

Lee has several production sites around the world. Their collection is produced in China, Japan, Myanmar, Pakistan and Vietnam, among others. Because these manufacturers are located outside Europe, it is difficult to verify if production takes place in ethical conditions.

Lee works with the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI). This is an organisation that monitors and certifies growing cotton with fewer chemicals. In addition, BCI also checks farmers’ working conditions. However, the BCI is less established than other certifications like for example GOTS (Global Organic Textile Standard). You can read more about certificates for cotton here.

The Lee collection consists of a wide variety of materials. The most commonly used material is cotton, with Lee using conventional cotton as well as organic and recycled cotton. Other natural materials such as linen, hemp and lyocell are also used in the collections.

In addition, Lee also uses synthetic materials. For example, some of the collection uses Repreve, a polyester made from old PET bottles. Polyamide, elastane, polyester and nylon are also used in Lee collections. Unfortunately, these materials are not good for the environment and contribute to the global textile waste problem. Microplastics can be released from these materials when washing the clothes. These then end up in rivers and oceans via water.

Lee must and is committed to reducing their environmental impact. For example, they have made all their distribution centres in North America zero-waste, and they are members of the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI). BCI aims to reduce chemical use and increase water efficiency in cotton production. In doing so, they also promote crop rotation and fair working conditions. Despite its many positive qualities, BCI also has its limits. At COSH! we prefer a complete ban on artificial chemicals rather than a reduction. Moreover, when you see the BCI label hanging in shops, you don’t know how big the percentage of BCI cotton is. BCI works with a so-called ​‘Mass Balance’ system, where the cotton is not traceable all the way to the final product. 

Lee does take good steps to use more sustainable dyeing processes. For example, they have the water-saving Crystal Clear dyeing process and Indigood Denim. Indigood Denim is a capsule collection where the garments are dyed with a foam dye. This process requires much less water and chemicals than in a conventional dyeing processes. Lee also aims to increase the use of this dyeing process in all their collections.

Lee has a circular capsule collection ​‘Jeans Redesign’, in collaboration with the Ellen MacArthur Foundation. These clothes are made from recycled materials and are designed according to circular principles. Because the clothes are made entirely of cotton, they are completely biodegradable after use. The garments are even designed so that the buttons can be easily taken off and it does not contain any chemicals.

Unfortunately, Lee does not yet apply these principles to its entire collections. In their designs, they often combine different materials. When natural and synthetic materials are mixed in one garment, the garment is harder to recycle after use and no longer biodegradable. This is therefore detrimental to the brand’s circularity.

Lee does not have a short production chain. Because production sites are located across China, Japan, Myanmar, Pakistan and Vietnam, clothes unfortunately have to travel long distances to get to shops.

Lee uses few materials of animal origin in their collections. When they do, the brand has its own code of conduct for all manufacturers. This states, among other things, that only leather that comes as a co-product from the meat or dairy industry is used. Lee also only uses mulesing-free wool. Mulesing is an animal-unfriendly practice where part of the sheep’s skin is cut away unanesthetised.

To prove that their clothes are qualitatively made, Lee offers a one-year warranty on all garments. During this year, you can have your purchase repaired for free. 

The collections always have a casual style. This is where you recognise Lee’s origins as a workwear brand. The timeless designs and high-quality materials ensure that you can enjoy your purchase for a long time.

Lee themselves are not very transparent about their production locations, but you can find all manufacturers through their parent company Kontoor. Lee does specify information about the materials used in the collection. Therefore, Lee still scores well in terms of transparency.