Regenerative fashion: fashion with a future?

From cotton cultivation to fibre: the term ​“regenerative” is increasingly being mentioned in the fashion industry. But what does it actually mean? Does the term already reflect reality, is it more of a wishful thinking, or is it merely an appealing marketing tool? We have taken a closer look at regenerative approaches in the fashion industry.

Take-Aways

• In fashion, regenerative agriculture is increasingly coming into focus, as it can address not only the destruction of ecosystems and the decline of biodiversity but also deeply rooted social issues in textile production. The revitalisation of soil quality, protection of biodiversity, and promotion of carbon sequestration play a crucial role, particularly in the sourcing of natural materials like cotton and wool.
• This often involves the overlooked appropriation and exploitation of knowledge and resources from indigenous and disadvantaged communities. While there is no standard definition, there is consensus on the core idea of regeneration: it involves a holistic consideration and treatment of ecological and social aspects to promote a sustainable and just future for all.
• Textile Exchange, a global non-profit organisation, presented a framework for assessing regenerative agriculture in the summer of 2023. This framework takes into account the diversity of the fashion industry and local agricultural conditions. It goes beyond traditional standards and integrates aspects such as soil health, biodiversity, and social justice. Through such frameworks, regenerative agriculture aims to develop resilient production systems that meet local conditions and global sustainability goals.

In this deep dive into regenerative fashion, there is input from: 

• Milena Leszkowicz-Weizman, freelance communications and content strategist with a focus on regeneration 

• Isabel Gomez, member of the management team at the Cradle-to-Cradle NGO in Berlin

More and more fashion brands are turning to regenerative fibers. Both The North Face and Allbirds have set themselves the goal of using only regenerative cotton by 2025. Inditex is also focusing on regenerative agriculture: the Spanish fashion group, whose portfolio includes Zara, Massimo Dutti and Bershka, invested around 15 million euros in the Regenerative Fund for Nature at the beginning of 2023, which was launched in 2021 by the non-profit organization Conservation International and the luxury group Kering. 

The term ​“regenerative” has become a keyword in the agricultural and fashion industry in recent years, in response to the urgent need on the part of consumers and politicians to promote more sustainable and environmentally friendly practices. The term was originally introduced in agriculture to describe practices that go beyond the mere preservation of ecosystems and actively contribute to their renewal. In the meantime, it has also gained importance in the fashion industry. The need for a regenerative approach stems from the growing realization that conventional methods of producing clothing often lead to environmental degradation, waste of resources and social injustice.

Regenerative – what does that actually mean?

There is no standard definition of the term ​“regenerative”. This is also due to the fact that regenerative agriculture cannot be explained in one sentence. It is context-dependent and requires a holistic systems approach that focuses on people and ecosystems. Milena Leszkowicz-Weizman, freelance communications and content strategist with a focus on regeneration, works with this definition: ​“My simplified definition of regeneration: taking enough and giving back enough to ensure future taking.” 

However, fashion is currently neither regenerative as a system nor as an industry. ​“I am a firm believer in the regenerative concept. Regeneration has a certain appeal. But those who don’t really understand the concept of regeneration often want to jump on the bandwagon quickly, join in the conversation and participate. In doing so, you run the risk of not taking the necessary time to delve deeper into the topic and reflect on how this concept can fundamentally change your own view of the world.”

Regeneration for the textile chain – and beyond

In their newsletter The Crisps, Tanita Hecking and Lavinia Muth outline the basic elements of regenerative fashion. At its core is an agricultural practice that aims to improve the quality of the soil, protect biodiversity and increase the sequestration of carbon in the soil. Regenerative agriculture therefore plays a role in the entire textile chain - from arable farming, where cotton and other plant fibers are grown, to pasture farming, which is essential for the production of animal fibers such as wool and leather, to forestry, which is important for the production of cellulose fibers (such as viscose). Another often neglected but essential aspect is the prevention of deforestation.

The regenerative fashion approach seeks not only to repair ecological damage, but also to address deep-rooted social ills associated with the production of clothing. By integrating principles of decolonization and social fairness, the often ignored issue of appropriation and exploitation of knowledge and resources of indigenous and disadvantaged communities is acknowledged and addressed. 

According to Hecking and Muth, this approach also questions economic growth – in line with the degrowth movement – and aims to create a balance that benefits both the planet and all people. Degrowth calls for a rethink of our economic system towards a conscious slowdown and reduction in production and consumption. Resource consumption and environmental impact should be minimized and social justice and quality of life promoted. Regenerative fashion, which is based on the degrowth movement, therefore aims to reduce damage and promotes active measures to restore the environment and create a fairer society. 

Regeneration focuses on local solutions for fashion

In summer 2023, Textile Exchange presented a framework for evaluating projects or programmes in the field of regenerative agriculture using various indicators. The ​‘Regenerative Agriculture Outcome Framework’ is intended to help the fashion and textile industry to make the effects of regenerative agriculture measurable. 

Unlike conventional frameworks, which are often based on rigid standards, this system is characterised by a variety of flexible indicators that can take into account the specific circumstances of each region and each farm. Genuine regenerative agriculture is a place-based, results-orientated system approach and not simply a list of standards, according to the authors of the framework. Its main aim is to promote collaboration with regenerative farms and the fashion industry, ensuring that this is done in a way that benefits all parties involved. 

For the database, the framework is based on an analysis of various key indicators. One example is the assessment of soil quality: farmers could use the improvement of soil structure, the increase in organic matter and the promotion of microbial life in the soil as indicators of regenerative practices. Textile companies could then use this data to select suppliers that are committed to restoring and protecting natural resources. This framework is intended to provide broad access to information and recommendations and is useful for both small farms and large textile companies.

According to Vogue Business, it could help to create more awareness for the use of regenerative agriculture in the fashion industry. On the other hand, there are also concerns that the framework may not be sufficient for a profound transformation and regeneration. 

A regenerative textile label?

The Regenerative Index is an assessment tool that analyses the regenerative quality of business models. Developed by Circulab, a French design studio and consultancy, the index analyses the impact of individual business models on people and other ecosystems.

Some fashion labels also rely on ROC (Regenerative Organic Certified) certification, which combines organic farming practices, animal welfare and social fairness. The certification goes beyond traditional organic standards such as the EU Organic Regulation or the USDA Organic seal: it not only requires the avoidance of synthetic pesticides and fertilisers, but also promotes comprehensive agricultural practices that actively regenerate the soil and support biodiversity. 

By integrating additional dimensions such as standards for fair labour conditions, ROC certification sets a more comprehensive and holistic standard. In addition to farmers, companies can also carry the label. Fashion companies such as J.Crew, Patagonia, H&M and Knowledge Cotton Apparel already have ROC-certified clothing in their ranges.

Despite these positive aspects, there is also criticism of the implementation and practicability of ROC certification. This concerns the costs of certification, for example. According to critics, the comprehensive requirements can be a hurdle, especially for smaller companies, as they can be demanding in both financial and administrative terms. 

Another point of criticism is that monitoring and enforcing the ROC standards can be difficult in practice. This raises questions about the consistency and reliability of the certification, especially in global supply chains with different regional conditions and regulations. Finally, the role of the Patagonia brand as co-founder of the certification is also criticised. Although Patagonia’s commitment to sustainability and ethical practices is widely respected, such links between a certification initiative and a commercial organisation raise concerns about potential conflicts of interest.

Cradle-to-cradle complements regenerative practices

The cradle-to-cradle concept, which is closely linked to regenerative fashion, focuses on comprehensive design and a sustainable product life cycle. Similar to regenerative fashion, cradle-to-cradle involves a complete integration of sustainable practices along the production chain. It takes into account the use of materials that are healthy for people and the environment, favours the use of renewable energy and promotes the careful use of water and soil. The social aspect is also emphasised: Fair working conditions and living wages are essential.

Cradle-to-cradle textiles are designed so that every component – from accessories such as buttons and zips to the fibres themselves – can either be returned to the production cycle or recycled without any loss of quality. Even microfibres that are released during washing are designed to be biodegradable and can therefore be safely returned to the biosphere. 

Compared to regenerative fashion, which focuses on the revitalisation of ecosystems and social justice, cradle-to-cradle also emphasises the importance of a comprehensive, circular design and production process. Both approaches complement each other, build on each other and together offer a comprehensive strategy. ​‘Analysing all product components and the entire textile supply chain with regard to material health and recyclability is not yet the standard today,’ explains Isabel Gomez, member of the Cradle to Cradle management team in Berlin. ​‘It should be in the interest of manufacturing companies to design textiles in such a way that the materials from garments that are no longer used are always available as nutrients for new products. This ultimately secures the raw material requirements of manufacturers in the future.’

In order to be able to close technical loops, there would also need to be genuine circular logistics that include take-back systems, sorting, reprocessing and recycling as well as the return to textile production. Although this is already practised in some cases, it is not yet standard, partly due to a lack of market-wide infrastructure. According to Isabel Gomez, it should also be in the manufacturers’ own interest to help build this infrastructure. ​‘At the same time, the right political framework conditions are needed, starting with strict quality criteria for textiles that come onto the market, but also with incentives for circular business models.’

In the DACH region, companies such as Trigema, Runamics, Circular Clothing and Erlich Textil have committed themselves to the cradle-to-cradle concept. Brands such as C&A, Ralph Lauren, Calida, Tchibo and Wolford also offer certified shirts, jeans, jackets, jumpers and underwear. A complete list of all products that carry the Cradle to Cradle certificate, including specific components such as colours or yarns and home textiles such as bed linen or curtains, can be found on the website of the Cradle to Cradle Products Innovation Institute.

No ​‘one-size-fits-all’ solution

A 2022 report by Textile Exchange on regenerative fashion suggests that rather than creating new standards or certifications for regenerative agriculture, the fashion industry should consider developing complementary modules. These additional modules would fulfil the criteria of existing standards, such as ROC certification, and also take into account important aspects such as soil health, water management, biodiversity and social justice.

According to Textile Exchange, regenerative agriculture also has the potential to address fundamental challenges facing the fashion industry. In addition to the supply chain disruptions caused by the coronavirus pandemic, there is an even greater and long-term risk from climate-related disruptions to fibre crop production. According to Textile Exchange, regenerative agricultural approaches can play a key role in helping farmers in these regions develop more resilient production systems and thus mitigate risk along the entire fashion supply chain.

Regenerative Fashion: Trend or real change?

The designer Angel Chang is internationally recognised as a pioneer of regenerative fashion. She combines sustainability and traditional craftsmanship. In the mountain province of Guizhou in China, local craftspeople produce the garments in her line. On her website, Chang emphasises that the cotton is processed in its natural state. As a result, the cotton seed oil remains on the fibre and the fabric is particularly soft.

Patagonia – co-founder of the ROC label – has been sourcing organic cotton since 1996 and has been committed to introducing farmers to regenerative farming practices ever since. In 2018, Patagonia conducted a pilot harvest of ROC cotton in India, working with over 150 farmers. Since then, the programme has expanded to over 2,000 farmers. In spring 2022, Patagonia launched its first product line made from ROC cotton.

The Regenerative Fund for Nature has set itself the goal of converting one million hectares of agricultural land in six countries to regenerative agriculture by 2026. To this end, the organisation awards grants to initiatives such as The Good Growth Company, which aims to restore ecosystems in Mongolia through the production of goat cashmere. Fundacion Solidaridad Latinoamericana, which produces cowhide with Creole and indigenous small livestock farmers in Argentina, and Organic Cotton Accelerator, which supports conventional cotton farmers in India in their transition to organic farming, have also been awarded grants. So far, seven grants of between 100,000 and 500,000 US dollars have been awarded. 

From buzzword to practicable concept

Regeneration has become a buzzword, just like sustainability was a few years ago. ​‘This is completely normal and systemic,’ says Milena Leszkowicz-Weizman: ​‘As long as we apply concepts within the capitalist, growth-orientated system, the system will appropriate these concepts as buzzwords and trends.’. In the capitalist business context, there is still too little space and patience for truly profound and long-term changes. ​‘Although numerous brands are already focusing on regenerative fibres, it is not surprising that they are not yet widespread in the mainstream market and demand remains comparatively low.’ 

According to the regeneration strategist, there is not a lack of knowledge or pioneers, but rather a lack of profitability. The value of regeneration, i.e. revitalisation, is currently not priced in. Regeneration could reduce expenditure, as revitalisation could reduce the risk of ecological disasters. ​‘In short, the positive impact of regenerative practices needs to be much better articulated and priced, because it exists,’ says Milena Leszkowicz-Weizman. Then more companies from the fashion industry would certainly embrace this approach.

‘In our opinion, a regenerative fashion industry is not only based on the regenerative use of agricultural land and water and the recyclability of materials,’ says Isabel Gomez from Cradle to Cradle. ​‘The aspect of material health in particular has often been neglected in the discussion about regenerative fashion. Yet this cradle-to-cradle criterion is not only important to protect the health of people and the environment.’

The future of regenerative fashion

But with many brands jumping on the regenerative agriculture bandwagon at the same time, the question arises as to whether this is just a marketing trend or a real change. The fashion industry needs to realise this: It’s not just about using regenerative fibres, but also about who is producing them, under what conditions and whether the principles of regenerative agriculture are being applied consistently and comprehensively.

Furthermore, for a truly regenerative approach to fashion, it is important that brands also demonstrate transparency and social responsibility in their corporate philosophy and ethics. The focus should not only be on minimising negative impacts, but on contributing positively to the regeneration of ecosystems and the well-being of the communities involved in production. Only in this way can the trend towards regenerative agriculture become more than just a marketing tool for fashion labels and contribute to real change.