23 July 2024
Regulatory Greenprint: Mastering the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation (ESPR)
- Production
Leather’s journey through human history is a tale of evolution, transcending its origins as a basic necessity to become a symbol of luxury and economic power in the modern world. Its role in society has been transformative, mirroring the shifts in human civilisation itself.
Initially, leather served fundamental purposes, providing protection and utility to early humans. It was an essential material for clothing, footwear, and shelter, prized for its durability and versatility. As civilisations advanced, so did the methods of leather production, with each culture adding its unique touch, refining techniques, and expanding uses.
The transition of leather into a luxury commodity is a testament to human ingenuity and cultural shifts. In ancient societies like the Roman Empire, leather was initially a material of the elite, a status symbol adorned by warriors and royalty. However, leather production experienced its first transition towards industrialisation, laying the foundations of its global importance. This prestige continued through the ages, with leather becoming a central element in fashion, furniture, and even in the automotive industry, always synonymous with quality and elegance.
In today’s globalised economy, leather’s value is monumental. According to Fortune Business Insights, the global leather goods market size is projected to grow from $468.49 billion in 2023 to $738.61 billion by 2030. China and India are the major raw leather manufacturers catering to a diverse and expansive customer base in Europe and North America. These numbers cement its significance as a lucrative co-product of the meat industry. Leather production has evolved into a fusion of tradition and innovation, where age-old tanning techniques coexist with modern methods.
However, the environmental considerations associated with leather production have become increasingly prominent. As the industry has grown, so has its ecological footprint, drawing attention to the need for more sustainable practices. Leather’s legacy, therefore, is not just a story of human progress and luxury; it’s also a narrative of adaptation and responsibility. It’s a story about balancing economic significance with ecological mindfulness to ensure that this fundamental material is justifiable as a raw material in our future, not just as a relic of past civilisations but as a human testament to our ongoing battle to evolve sustainably.
Leather Production: From Ancient Methods to Modern Challenges
Historically, tanning was a natural process using plant-based tannins from tree bark, leaves, and other organic materials. This method, known as vegetable tanning, was time-consuming and labour-intensive yet relatively environmentally friendly. As demand for leather grew with rapid industrialisation, the industry sought quicker and more efficient methods, leading to the widespread adoption of chrome tanning in the 19th century. Currently, about 90% of global leather is produced through chromium tanning.
The introduction of chrome tanning, utilising chromium salts, marked a transformative moment for the leather industry by offering a method to produce softer, more consistent leather in an exceptionally short time-frame.
However, this technique has been and still is responsible for substantial environmental damage. Using chromium and additional chemicals in the tanning process has led to devastating water and soil pollution, primarily due to poor waste management and a lack of environmental awareness. According to the Journal of Cleaner Production 2014, the ecological ruin is profound, rendering drinking water poisonous and arable land unfit for food production. The eventual industry-wide acknowledgement of chrome tanning as a health hazard and its disastrous environmental degradation spurred innovation and a global call for more sustainable practices within the leather industry. In response, there has been a resurgence in the use of vegetable tanning, albeit remaining a niche-process. New methods, such as aldehyde tanning and synthetic tanning, have also been trialled in an effort to reduce environmental impact.
The leather industry faces a long list of environmental challenges, highlighted by the fact that each kilogram of animal skin processed generates approximately 30 litres of wastewater. In India alone, the industry produces 50,000 cubic meters of effluent daily. This reality highlights the urgent necessity for advancing and expanding closed-loop water treatment systems.
The push towards embracing and recycling tannery waste is gaining momentum, guided by the principles of the circular economy. Astonishingly, chromium tanning is believed to generate waste at a rate 200 times that of its actual product output. What’s more concerning is the enduring nature of this waste, attributed to the durable crosslinking bonds between chromium and collagen in hides and skins formed during tanning. Consequently, the environmental toll of chrome-tanned leather scraps in landfills is on par with the challenges posed by plastic waste, highlighting the critical need for tackling innovative waste management and recycling strategies in the leather industry head on.
Leather as a Co-product: A Double-Edged Sword
The story of leather is deeply intertwined with the narrative of the meat industry, revealing a complex and often paradoxical relationship with environmental sustainability. Often portrayed as a by-product of meat production, the global prominence of the leather industry actually spotlights its role as a significant and profitable sector in its own right rather than merely a rescuer of “unused” raw materials.
On one hand, using hides and skins in leather production can be seen as an efficient use of resources. Without the leather industry, these hides would certainly go to waste, adding to environmental burdens. According to the Leather and Hide Council of America, not processing and using animal hides would result in 33 million unused hides in the US alone and greenhouse emissions, estimated at 6.6 million tons annually. Even now, about 15% of these hides go straight to landfills each year. By transforming these skins into valuable leather goods, the industry contributes to a form of circular economy, making the most out of existing resources and thereby reducing overall waste.
However, this efficiency is not without its significant environmental costs, which begin with the globally rising demand for meat. The primary source of leather, conventional, large-scale livestock farming, is a major contributor to various environmental challenges. It’s a resource-intensive process requiring substantial land, water, and feed, often leading to deforestation and habitat destruction as land is cleared for grazing or feed production. The Amazon rainforest, for example, has seen extensive deforestation, significantly driven by cattle ranching for both meat and leather. According to the Greenpeace Report “Slaughtering the Amazon”, the cattle sector in the Amazon is the largest single diver of global deforestation.
Additionally, large-scale livestock agriculture significantly impacts climate change through its greenhouse gas emissions, particularly methane, a potent and often overlooked contributor compared to CO2. Estimates suggest that livestock farming accounts for approximately 11% to over 19% of all human-induced greenhouse gas emissions. Consequently, leather production, being a co-product of this sector, is directly linked to the climate crisis.
The water footprint of leather also exacerbates its detrimental environmental impact. The tanning process, essential for converting raw hides into durable leather, is water-intensive and has led to countless cases of water pollution when not managed properly. Although advancements in tanning technology and wastewater treatment are helping to mitigate these impacts, they remain a concern, especially in regions with less stringent environmental regulations and less advanced infrastructure and technology.
The Hurdles to Sustainability: Overcoming Industry Obstacles
The quest for sustainable leather production is marked by various challenges from production to consumption.
From Thinking to Action
Navigating the journey from acknowledging the need for sustainable production to implementing it effectively is our greatest hurdle. This hesitation often comes from concerns about the increased costs associated with these changes, the shake-up of established supply chains, and a focus on short-term profits over long-term environmental well-being. Additionally, lacking knowledge in sustainable practices and finding eco-friendlier sources can impede progress within many companies.
Consumer Demand and Legislation
The power of consumer demand in defining industry practices cannot be overstated. One of the primary challenges is enlightening consumers about the environmental toll of conventional leather and the benefits of opting for more sustainable alternatives. Many consumers are still swayed more by cost and current trends than by environmental considerations. Supportive legislative measures could pave the way for a truly profound shift towards sustainably produced leather goods. Equally crucial is bridging the knowledge gap. Well-informed and discerning consumers have the potential to forcibly drive the industry towards better practices through their purchasing choices.
Challenges in Scaling Innovation
Many tanneries, especially in the Global South, are subjected to intense competition in a cost-sensitive industry, often lacking the financial freedom to self-modernise and implement environmentally friendlier production practices.
As reported by the Journal of Environmental Chemical Engineering, a notable discrepancy exists between the outlined goals for sustainable leather technologies and the current achievements in this field. Due to lower wage and investment costs, the leather industry has largely shifted to locations in the ‘global south,’ where mass production is feasible (and exploited). Here, the primary focus is on minimising labour and capital expenditures and maximising output.
Therefore, while European tanneries invest in current environmental technologies, they have significantly scaled back on research and development activities, largely due to cost constraints. Their efforts are mostly concentrated on refining existing processes through incremental innovations. Yet, bold and unconventional steps are required to transform the current system.
Paradoxically, despite these challenges, the European chemical industry, which strives for environmentally safe practices, maintains a prominent position in the global market for leather chemicals. It supplies the essential additives for the conventional leather manufacturing processes, benefiting from chromium tanning methods’ continued dominance.
Paradoxically, despite these challenges, the European chemical industry continues to hold a strong position in the global leather chemicals market despite its commitment to environmentally safe practices. This industry plays a crucial role by supplying vital additives needed for traditional leather manufacturing, profiting from the ongoing dominance of chromium tanning methods. This situation exemplifies the power of lobbying for profit instead of for planetary well-being.
Logistics, Efficiency and Volatility
The leather industry’s intricate supply chain, from sourcing raw materials to distributing finished goods, often suffers from inefficiency, waste, and a lack of sustainability and transparency. Additionally, climate collapse is an incrementally increasing risk for hide-producing countries such as Bangladesh. The global transportation network and a disjointed global supply chain of hides, chemicals, and products further burden the environment.
Choosing Sustainable Leather: A Guide for Conscious Consumers
Allowing sustainability factors to guide our choices is no longer an option but a necessity. The decision to purchase leather products comes with a responsibility to consider their environmental impact. As consumers, we wield significant power in influencing market trends and production practices. Opting for more sustainable leather is a vital step in this journey that can collectively have a monumental impact.
The first step is to choose leather products sourced from tanneries that can detail more sustainable production practices and traceability. One such practice to look out for is vegetable tanning, a century-old method using natural tannins from tree bark, fruits, and leaves. This process is not only less harmful to the environment compared to conventional chemical tanning, but it also imparts a unique quality and look to the leather, enhancing its aesthetic, uniqueness and durability. Products made from vegetable-tanned leather often develop a rich patina, growing in character and beauty over time.
In addition to selecting more sustainable tanning methods, consumers can look for certifications that assure environmental awareness. Prominent certifications are the Leather Working Group (LWG)’s flagship certification, LEATHER STANDARD by OEKO-TEX® or Sustainable Leather Foundation’s compliance certificate, which assesses leather manufacturing facilities or tanneries for environmental, social and governance metrics, ensuring they are safe for both the environment and consumers. These certifications are a reliable indicator of a product’s compliance with stringent environmental standards.
The Most Sustainable Choice: Embracing Longevity
However, sustainability in leather goes beyond the point of purchase; it extends into the product’s lifespan, which is where its true sustainable nature lies. Emphasising the longevity of leather items is crucial in reducing their environmental impact. When cared for properly, high-quality, durable leather goods can last for generations, thus eliminating the need for frequent replacements and reducing waste. Vintage leather items stand as the unsung champions.
If designed for circularity, leather products can be exemplary for more sustainable consumption, as Nithyaprakash, Niveathitha, and Shanmugapriya detailed. The positive ecological effects are even more profound if combined with regenerative farming.
To truly materialise sustainability in leather, we must seek a delicate balance between ecological mindfulness and the enduring quality of the product. It’s about digging deeper into the story behind our leather product – asking questions, understanding where the hides come from, how the animal was raised, the skin processed, and the consumable crafted. This extends to prolonging the leather products’ life through care and maintenance.
We do not need to reinvent the wheel. Instead, we must use our resources efficiently, opting for a circular design and a Cradle to Cradle approach. Our choices as consumers have the power to influence the leather industry significantly, steering it towards a future more aligned with mutual respect and stewardship. The environmental saga of leather weaves through time-honoured traditions, global demands, and the constantly shifting dynamics of our world. By tracing leather’s journey from its roots to the present day and remembering its history of craftsmanship and indispensability, we empower ourselves to make impactful decisions that preserve heritage and respect our environment.
