22 October 2024
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Brand exploitation and the hidden impact of merchandise
When we think of the Olympics, images of athletic prowess, national pride, and unifying global events often come to mind. The Olympics have a positive influence on morale, bringing people together to celebrate the accomplishments of athletes from around the world. However, the glimmering facade of the Olympics has grown to overshadow significant underlying issues, and carries with it a complex legacy of environmental and social impacts that warrant scrutiny.
Hosting the Olympics has historically led to large-scale urban redevelopment projects that, while intended to rejuvenate a city, often result in significant social and environmental costs. From the displacement of local residents to the construction of massive, temporary structures that go unused after the Games, there are numerous sustainability concerns associated with hosting this global event. For example, the 2014 Winter Olympics in Sochi involved construction projects that left behind ghost towns of unused stadiums and hotels, epitomizing the wastefulness and temporary nature of such infrastructures. Similarly, the Rio 2016 Games faced criticism for displacing local communities and failing to deliver on promises of lasting benefits. Historical precedents underscore the transitory benefits versus long-term detriments of building massive sports infrastructures.
Environmental concerns loom large, especially regarding the carbon footprint associated with constructing new facilities and the influx of international visitors, many of whom travel by air, including private jets. These activities significantly contribute to greenhouse gas emissions, casting a shadow over any claims of a ‘green’ Olympics, regardless of the organizing committee’s efforts. However, it is possible for the event itself to be as sustainable as possible, independent of the actions of the attendees. We recently see more and more examples of the entertainment industry making efforts to conduct large scale events with a minimal footprint, a prime example being Coldplay. This shows that such practices are indeed possible and, in theory, transferable to even larger events such as the Olympics.
Paris 2024 is branded as potentially the “greenest” Olympics in history, the organizing committee also having developed a comprehensive sustainability plan, outlined in their “Pre-Games Report: Delivering More Sustainable Games.” This plan includes specific targets and initiatives to reduce the environmental impact of the Games, such as using 95% temporary or pre-existing structures, committing to 100% renewable energy, and implementing a 50% reduction in single-use plastics. The organisers aim to repurpose or recycle 80% of the waste generated during the Games, showcasing a commitment to a circular economy.
Transparency is a key aspect of Paris 2024’s sustainability efforts. The organizing committee provides detailed information about their social metrics, including the number of employees and their specific demographics. This level of transparency ensures accountability and allows stakeholders to monitor the progress of the Games.
However, despite these sustainability efforts, the reality on the ground tells a slightly different story. The use of existing infrastructure has caused the displacement of 2200 students from their housing to accommodate Olympic staff. The city has also been shutting down homeless encampments and displacing the homeless further away from the city centre, and away from their established support-system. This only follows a long, dark history of ‘social cleansing’ associated with the Olympics, with the games usually being ‘coincidentally’ preceded by the displacement of the ‘undesirable’ population in order to cater to the expensive palates of the already comfortable. Instances like these raise questions about the true impact of the Games and the ethical considerations involved.
One aspect of sustainability that often goes unnoticed is the management of textile waste and merchandise associated with the Olympics. Paris 2024 assures that 90% of the assets used will have a pre-arranged second life. Items such as the 16,000 beds and mattresses from the Athletes’ Village are set to be donated to various organizations, showcasing a proactive approach to managing post-event waste.
The circular economy strategy developed by the organizing committee estimates, reduces, and monitors resource consumption before, during, and after the Games. This approach aims to manage resources effectively and promote their second life. The strategy also involves mobilizing Paris 2024’s ecosystem, including event agencies and Games operators, to tackle sustainability challenges collaboratively.
Nonetheless, the involvement of luxury brands such as LVMH in producing medals and outfits brings up debates about the true sustainability of these claims. The medals for the 2024 Games incorporate recycled materials and even include a piece of iron from the Eiffel Tower, which is an iconic and innovative idea that makes for a great souvenir. The gold and silver used in the medals are 100% recycled and certified by the Responsible Jewellery Council. However, the association with high-end consumer brands, which typically have complex environmental footprints, muddies the waters of what true sustainability might look like.
Despite ambitious recycling and repurposing plans, the lifecycle of Olympic merchandise remains a contentious issue.
For this year’s Olympics games, a significant trend has emerged: rating the opening ceremony outfits, a practice that often translates into unabashed praise for the brands sponsoring these ensembles. Some key examples of the brands this trend spotlights includes the Japanese brand, Asics. Asics, following the theme of the “greenest olympics”, has made efforts to reduce the carbon emissions associated with their 2024 Olympics outfits worn by the Japanese Olympians. They reduced carbon emissions by 34% from the previous Olympics, utilizing recycled materials and renewable energy in production. That being said, the brand overall has a long way to go to improve their overall environmental and social practices.
Another brand facing major backlash for their Olympics outfits is Lululemon. Over the past couple years, notably since their commitment to sponsoring the Canadian team’s Olympic outfits, the brand has been criticized for their misleading marketing campaigns that paint an eco-friendly image while their true practices tell a different story. Lululemon’s 2023 Impact Report reveals that over 60% of the materials they use are fossil-fuel derived and non-biodegradable, contributing to environmental pollution. This has lead to activist protests and legal actions, and has left the public feeling dissatisfied over their representation of Canada and their athletes.
Ralph Lauren, the designer of Team USA’s outfits for the Olympics, has made efforts to incorporate sustainability into their designs. The cotton polo shirts worn by Team USA are allegedly made from 100% recycled material, marking a first for Ralph Lauren. However, the true sustainability of their garments is unclear. While they use RWS certified wool, ensuring ethical and cruelty-free sourcing, there is also the use of polyester, which is known for its negative environmental impact. It is important to have full transparency in order to assess the sustainability of their products holistically.
This only goes to show, that while this spotlight ostensibly celebrates progress towards sustainable apparel, it frequently unveils a troubling pattern of superficial commitments. Many brands eagerly jump on the sustainability bandwagon, but their efforts too often culminate in greenwashing.
The Olympics have become a global phenomenon, having a significant impact on retail sales, with sports products experiencing a surge in demand. For example, in the 2021 Olympics, sales of Japan’s national flag saw a revenue increase of 698%. Additionally, revenue from Amazon product listings using the keyword “Olympics 2021” increased by 202,684% compared to the previous year. In 2024, the official opening ceremony blazers designed by Ralph Lauren sold out online within days of the start of the Olympics. This rapid sale highlights the consumer demand for Olympics fashion and the willingness of people to purchase these items, regardless of their price. And for the people who don’t afford to spend $998 on “official” merchandise, there are, ofcourse, hundreds of thousands of other brands releasing limited collections to jump on this trend and capitalize on peoples’ passion for the games.
This phenomenon, referred to as “sports-washing”, involves brands using the popularity of sports events to promote their products and increase sales. While it is understandable that people want to show their support for their favourite teams or athletes, the excessive consumption and overproduction associated with sports merchandising raise questions about the integrity of the sportsman spirit and the need for such merchandise to reflect our sportsmanship.
Overproduction is a significant challenge associated with Olympics fashion and merchandise, and the fast fashion industry is particularly notorious for this. The toxic cycle of selling trends to consumers, which increases demand, which in-turn increases the pressure to keep up with the trends, inevitably leads to excessive garment waste. The consequences of overproduction include environmental pollution, resource depletion, and unethical labour practices.
Despite the sustainability challenges and negative impacts associated with Olympics fashion, there are positive initiatives and efforts worth mentioning. Local, sustainable fashion initiatives are getting more spotlight during the 2024 Olympics, such as COSH! member 8beaufort. This German sports shoe brand is supporting the German sailing team, highlighting the importance of sustainable practices in sports.
Additionally, some designers were commissioned with the task of transforming sporting material waste into wearable art for the Paris Olympic and Paralympic Games. These initiatives showcase the potential for creative solutions that reduce waste and promote sustainability.
In conclusion, at the 2024 Paris Olympics, the efforts to host a sustainable event are evident, yet the execution and broader impacts tell a more nuanced story. The challenges of balancing ambitious environmental goals with the realities of social displacement and commercial interests highlight the ongoing struggle to align global events like the Olympics with sustainable development practices. As a consumer, you can do your part by finding non-materialistic ways to support your favourite athlete or nation. And if you feel inspired by the Olympics to adopt a more sporty life yourself, you can check out our blogs to find ethical Sportswear and Yoga clothing.
ASI Central. (2024, June 18). Ralph Lauren debuts 100% recycled cotton polo for Paris Olympics. https://members.asicentral.com/news/strategy/june-2024/ralph-lauren-debuts-100-recycled-cotton-polo-for-paris-olympics/
Burke, M. (2023, April 20). How the Olympics Impact Online Retail Sales – 2021 Outlook. Jungle Scout. https://www.junglescout.com/blog/olympics-impact-on-retail-sales/
Cari. (2024, July 24). Street performance outside Lululemon in Vancouver raises concerns over integrity of Team Canada’s Olympic apparel. Stand.earth. https://stand.earth/press-releases/street-performance-outside-lululemons-flagship-store-in-vancouver-raises-concerns-over-integrity-of-team-canadas-olympic-apparel/
De Sortiraparis, G. (2023, October 27). Paris 2024: 100 euros and Olympic tickets in exchange for accommodation for CROUS students. Sortiraparis.com. https://www.sortiraparis.com/en/news/in-paris/articles/293327-paris-2024 – 100-euros-and-olympic-tickets-in-exchange-for-accommodation-for-crous-students
Euronews. (2024, July 26). Lululemon: Canadian sportswear brand accused of greenwashing ahead of Olympic opening ceremony. Euronews. https://www.euronews.com/green/2024/07/25/greenwashing-lululemon-hit-with-legal-complaint-before-olympic-opening-ceremony
Gallant, A. (2024, May 30). From cable TV to apparel shopping, here’s how likely Paris Olympic viewers stand out – CivicScience. CivicScience. https://civicscience.com/from-cable-tv-to-apparel-shopping-heres-how-likely-paris-olympic-viewers-stand-out/
MacGilp, R. (2024, July 25). Is Lululemon Greenwashing? — Remake. Remake. https://remake.world/stories/lululemon-greenwashing/