Merchant & Mills

Merchant & Mills, founded in the UK in 2010 by Carolyn Denham and Roderick Field, is a diverse group of individuals – all with a passion for sewing. Carolyn, with her fashion design background, brings style and practicality, while Roderick, a well-known photographer, contributes an artistic and visually compelling perspective to the brand.

According to information on their website, Merchant & Mills claims a commitment to diversity and inclusion, extending beyond the UK to their global partnerships. They state that the majority of their suppliers are situated throughout Europe. Manufacturers based in Europe must follow the strict labour rules and laws of the European Union. Thus, we can assume that production takes place in ethical social conditions. The website also mentions that their team conducts annual visits to these suppliers to uphold these standards.

Giving back is key for Merchant & Mills. They claim to support several charities like Doctors without borders, the Stephen Lawrence Foundation, Crisis, and the Rainforest Alliance, showing their dedication to both local and global welfare.

Merchant & Mills has shifted its core fabric collections towards more sustainable options, discontinuing those that didn’t meet their stringent criteria. Their focus is predominantly on natural fibres, with a particular emphasis on linen. They have also expanded their offerings in Hemp and Tencel, fibres known for their high eco-friendliness ratings. Whenever feasible, they have transitioned their cotton ranges to organic GOTS certified materials.

According to the website, their linen fabric, for example, is produced in small batches in Eastern Europe, where there is a strong heritage of spinning and weaving. The mill runs on green energy and is Oeko-Tex certified and a member of the European Flax-Linen and Hemp alliance.

Furthermore, they collaborate with global partners to curate a selection of deadstock fabric. This deadstock – surplus material from fashion designers, film sets, and fabric mills – would otherwise be destined for landfills. By repurposing these fabrics, Merchant & Mills not only reduces waste but also offers their customers unique and environmentally responsible fabric choices.

In their retail operations, all orders are dispatched without plastic packaging, using either paper mailers or cardboard boxes. They make a conscious effort to reuse incoming cardboard boxes for outgoing orders. Additionally, they offer a ​‘packaging-free’ option, allowing retail customers to choose to receive items placed directly in a box without pre-wrapping.

For their wholesale and warehousing, a significant number of their fabric suppliers are located within Europe, enabling fabric transportation by road. They have requested these suppliers to eliminate plastic wrapping around fabric rolls, opting instead for paper, which is then recycled. Currently, Merchant & Mills uses a blend of 50% recycled and recyclable plastic for this purpose and is open to sharing this resource to encourage wider use over 100% new plastic. 

All incoming plastic at their facilities is reused as much as possible, and they encourage their customers to repurpose the plastic they receive. Their courier partners, DHL and DPD, operate climate-neutral deliveries, offsetting their carbon footprint through various climate protection projects. 

Merchant & Mills embraces the concept of circularity in its operations, particularly through its use of deadstock fabric. This material, originally excess from fashion designers, film sets, and fabric mills, is given a new lease on life instead of being discarded. 

Most of their fabrics are monomaterials, composed of one type of fibre or yarn, which can be advantageous for recycling and sustainability. They provide specific fabric care instructions for each type of fabric, ensuring customers can maintain the quality and longevity of their textiles.

What happens with your creations after you’ve made them is completely up to you. To be more circular, it’s good to pass it on to someone else (depending on the condition it is in) instead of discarding it.
Merchant & Mills does not offer repair service, but is always open to discussing your latest sewing projects!

Merchant & Mills does not share information about their manufacturing locations, therefore it is difficult to estimate the length of this brand’s supply chain. 

They do mention on their website that, a significant number of their fabric suppliers are located within Europe, enabling fabric transportation by road. 

They also offer a range of Japanese wool fabrics. Japanese wool production has a distinct heritage rooted in a commitment to quality and craftsmanship. In regions like Hokkaido, sheep farming and wool production have been practised for generations, with an emphasis on producing wool that is both high-quality and sustainable. 

Japanese wool is often characterized by its fine texture and durability. 

Merchant & Mills offers wool fabrics. They offer Japanese wool and repurpose deadstock wool, reducing waste and demand for new production.

Merchant & Mills encourages the art of sewing and the idea behind slow fashion. They believe in making choices that last. When you sew, you get to pick everything – the colour, shape, style, and fit. This means you can create clothes that you’ll love and wear not just for a season, but for many years. Their approach is all about remaking your favourite styles over and over, making fashion sustainable and personal.

Merchant & Mills fabrics collection has an extensive range of textures and patterns, offering something for every one. From earthy, solid hues to playful polka dots and classic checks, each fabric promises to add a touch of sophistication and style to any creation.

Merchant & Mills to be as inclusive as possible. They offer a wide size range for all their patterns. They choose ​‘real models’ to showcase their designs.

Merchant & Mills projects an image of sustainability and ethical practices, yet their level of transparency leaves room for scrutiny. The brand falls short in providing detailed information about their manufacturing locations and the specifics of their material sourcing. This lack of detailed disclosure makes it challenging for consumers to fully understand the extent of their commitment to sustainable practices. Additionally, without comprehensive insight into their supply chain and production processes, it is difficult to verify their claims.