26 December 2024
The Fashion Highlights of 2024: A Year of Impact and Innovation
- COSH! Member Publicity
- Greenwashing
- EPR
Spotlighting Earth’s Need for Radical Restoration
World Environment Day, observed annually on June 5th, is a collective reminder of our responsibility to protect and regenerate our lifeline and mother: Earth. Halting environmental collapse requires international cooperation, political will, and collective action at all levels, from individuals to governments and businesses. Established by the United Nations in 1972, this day encourages united proactivity and awareness of the environmental destruction we face.
The publication of the recent IPPC report presents undeniable evidence that the Earth’s ecosystems are under severe stress. Strong evidence suggests they are approaching potential tipping points, which could culminate in a battle for survival. Climate collapse, biodiversity loss, deforestation, pollution, and other environmental issues contribute to this apocalyptic scenario.
Scientists estimate that the current rate of species extinction is hundreds to thousands of times higher than the natural background extinction rate. According to the Intergovernmental Science-Policy Platform on Biodiversity and Ecosystem Services (IPBES), up to one million species are at risk of extinction in the coming decades if we do not act. This inadvertently compromises our collective future.
Venice, Italy, faces rising sea levels and its potential submergence and, therefore, the disappearance of its cultural heritage. Spain’s Doñana National Park grapples with unsustainable agriculture and water extraction. And the Danube River Basin suffers from pollution and habitat degradation. The Horn of Africa continues to be in the grips of an unrelenting drought, the worst drought in four decades. In India, another record heat wave paralysed the country in April, pushing it closer to the limits of interspecies survival.
43.000 people died in 2022 due to drought causing famine in the Horn of Africa World Health Organisation
This year’s World Environment Day theme is “Solutions to plastic pollution”. Earth’s citizens and governments are invited to envision and manifest a planetary future without plastic pollution.
This year’s theme highlights the importance of innovative and nature-based solutions to address radically progressing environmental degradation from plastic pollution. Reimagining our relationship with single-use plastics and plastic fibres entails questioning existing systems, promoting sustainable technologies, and advocating for policies prioritising compostable materials.
Fossil fuels and their intertwining habitat destruction must be directly linked to plastics to heighten consumer awareness. This would accelerate the global implementation of alternative materials and promote circularity regarding existing plastic.
Since the 1950s, our annual production of plastics has continually risen, with the global north being a driving force. Our cumulative polymers, synthetic fibres and additives production was 8300 million tonnes. Broken down,the result is:
Since the 1950s, 55 % of produced plastics went straight to landfill or were discarded. Our World in Data
Of the 5800 million tonnes of primary plastic no longer in use, only 9 % have been recycled since 1950. This drastically calls for a recycling accessibility revolution and international cooperation to keep plastics in circularity and prevent downcycling for as long as possible.
Although most of the plastic that ends up in the ocean comes from rivers based in low-to-middle-income countries, high-income countries generate the highest amounts of waste per person. Yet, they can access far more effective waste management systems and infrastructure. This leaves those without means struggling to deal with the detrimental effects of plastic pollution.
Countries such as Indonesia, Thailand, Malaysia, and the Philippines were inundated by imported plastic waste, not receiving funds to establish sufficient recycling facilities or management. Over in Africa, Nigeria’s and Ghana’s textile industries collapsed due to secondhand clothing arriving in thousands of bales daily. These compromised mostly low-quality, synthetic garments unfit for resell. The countless unsold items wreak havoc on the environment, causing health issues and even death. In addition, the burning of textile mountains release dangerous toxins, and those carrying and selling bales experience bone deterioration and spinal injuries.
While governments and organisations are pivotal in driving environmental change, mainly through legislative implementation, individual actions can collectively contribute to significant transformations. Making sustainable choices can make a tangible difference, not just in our daily lives. They can create a ripple effect on a societal level. By mindfully consuming resources and goods, reducing waste, recycling, and adopting eco-friendly practices, we can help steer the economy towards a sustainable future.
This transformative action can be observed on all levels, from the plastic bag ban implemented by countries such as Kenya, Rwanda, and Bangladesh to ethical and fair-trade certifications or the zero-waste movement. These examples highlight how individual actions, choices, and advocacy have influenced behaviours, industries, and policy decisions.
Making individual sustainable choices in our daily lives creates a ripple effect on societal level. COSH! Conscious Shopping Made Easy
We can also achieve this regarding the plastic crisis. For example, we can opt for non-packaged produce and goods, natural fibres for clothing, and reuse, re-wear and repair where possible. Also, installing washing machine filters or speciality washing bags for plastic fibre garments prevents microfibres from entering waterways.
World Environment Day is an ideal invitation and opportunity to tackle the issue of environmental illiteracy. This includes educational opportunities and activities promoting systems thinking, interdisciplinary knowledge, environmental ethics and stewardship, and individual responsibility and empowerment. By acquiring and sharing these vital skills, we can lay the groundwork for paving a new pathway to a planetary future that can sustain us and all beings.
Moreover, our environmental issues transcend borders and demand immediate global collaboration to tackle complex and interwoven challenges. These include the North-South conflict, natural resource scarcity and distribution, gender inequality and inter-and intra-generational justice, to name a few.
The fashion industry is one of the most environmentally damaging sectors to date. It contributes to widespread pollution, resource depletion, and exploitation of people and animals.
This month Greenpeace gathered satellite imagery that linked Royal Golden Eagle, the world’s largest viscose producer, to Indonesian wood pulp mills. These had cleared 37,105 hectares or approximately 51,923 football fields of natural rainforest on the island of Borneo in Kalimantan, Indonesia.
Viscose demand responsible for clearing 37,105 hectares or approximately 51,923 football fields of natural rainforest on the island of Borneo in Kalimantan, Indonesia. Greenpeace
However, amidst this stark reality, awareness has risen dramatically, and momentum for change has accelerated significantly. As a result, the industry’s previous consistent indifference and inability to change towards becoming a creative force for good seems to be shifting. “Climate change is a global problem. The fashion industry has the power to be a global solution,” said Eva Kruse, CEO of Global Fashion Agenda. This calls for a global implementation of governmental regulations.
Several European countries have made significant strides in implementing legislation to halt the fashion industry’s environmentally destructive practices. Sweden, for instance, spearheads sustainable fashion initiatives through the “Swedish Textile Initiative for Climate Action”. France has banned destroying unsold clothing and introduced Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) programs, promoting transparency and accountability. Germany supports sustainable textile production through labelling systems and research funding. Denmark actively promotes circularity through the Circular Fashion Partnership, while the Netherlands emphasises eco-labelling and circular textiles. Italy is now focusing on reducing hazardous chemicals and is supporting sustainable production processes.
Will the new ban mean 55% less plastic products will be produced? What will the impact be on the labour market? Will many suddenly be without jobs? If so, will that mean the remaining people will be more likely to be paid fair wages or will the demand for jobs deflate the price for labour?
At COSH! we like to reflect and analyse the effects new legislative measures will have. We are curious how the current 55% of plastics that go unused and end up incinerated or in landfills will suddenly “vanish” regarding the new EU ban on destroying unsold goods.
Will the new ban mean that 55% fewer plastic products will be produced? How will this impact the labour market? Will workers be left jobless? If so, will that mean that the remaining people will be more likely to be paid fair wages or will the demand for jobs deflate labour costs?
On one side, we hear retailers speak of 30% fewer sales in stores, resulting in smaller orders for the upcoming seasons. Secondly, with the ban on destroying unsold goods going into effect, factories must be incentivised to produce less. Therefore, the price per product produced will ultimately rise as budgets shrink due to fewer products. How will this impact garment workers?
Luckily, this week, the European Parliament voted in favour of a draft bill, the Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive. It outlined the responsibilities of corporations towards human rights and the environment. This legislative piece is potentially a landmark directive requiring most businesses to rethink and restructure their business practices. Since most EU fashion company value chains feature non-transparent and complex offshore structures, this new bill would force a painful but necessary restructuring and demand enforce accountability.
Progress is accelerating, yet certain areas in fashion production could benefit from stricter legislation: chemical regulation, promoting sustainable, non-synthetic materials, restricting fossil fuel fibres, and actively incentivising circular production methods. This could radically boost the industry’s transition to a sustainable one. The fashion industry comes in second as the second-highest plastic waste generator and third-highest plastic production. In correlation to the sobering statistics, this year’s World Environment Day theme illustrates the industry’s dilemma. It calls for the necessary and immediate reduction of plastic fibres and integrating them into a circular model. Unfortunately, a popular greenwashing tactic, downcycling PET bottles to textile fibres, prevent plastics from remaining within the circular economy for much longer. This also increases micro-fibre shedding and plastic pollution.
As we commemorate World Environment Day, we must recognise the urgency for change. Governments, businesses, and individuals must collaborate and act on their promises to promote sustainable practices. For example, implementing further legislation in the fashion industry would create enhanced accountability for water pollution, chemical usage, and worker rights. In addition, countries must invest in resilient and low-emission infrastructure and support and fund international collaborations to tackle the mounting environmental challenges.
If we fail to address the complexities of the climate crisis actively, we don’t just risk the destruction of our habitat. We inadvertently face substantial economic losses across all sectors. This would mean a global threat to food security, mass displacement and migration, natural resource competition resulting in national security collapse, and overstraining our healthcare systems. Given so many overwhelming reasons that call for urgent reimagination, recreation and restoration, we must celebrate this World Environment Day as a catalyst for change. We must work towards a sustainable, plastic pollution-free, and life-affirming future for all.
26 December 2024
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