How Düsseldorf Is Rethinking Sustainable Fashion

When you think of fashion in Düsseldorf, chances are the Königsallee is the first thing that comes to mind: international luxury brands, gleaming shop windows and one of Europe’s best-known shopping streets. But there is much more to the city’s fashion scene than the famous Kö. In neighbourhoods such as Unterbilk and Pempelfort, and around Lorettostraße, Nordstraße or Carlsplatz, you’ll find handmade collections, new approaches to conscious consumption and concepts that make fashion more personal, long-lasting and individual.

This is where people are working who see sustainability not as a restriction, but as an invitation to rethink our relationship with clothes. Designer Angelika Kauffmann creates handcrafted collections with a distinctive signature, stylist Uta Engbert of Slowsetter reveals the potential already hiding in our wardrobes, while Heiko Wunder of wunderwerk has been advocating for a more responsible fashion industry for years.

Three conversations, three perspectives, yet one shared conclusion: sustainable fashion doesn’t begin with the next purchase. It begins with an attitude – and sometimes simply with the courage to do things differently.

Angelika Kauffmann, Designer & Founder

Puff sleeves, feminine silhouettes and handcrafted one-off pieces have become hallmarks of Angelika Kauffmann’s work. At her Düsseldorf atelier, the designer creates collections for her eponymous label that bring historical influences into the present. Rather than chasing trends, she focuses on individuality, local production and clothes designed to be worn for years.

For anyone unfamiliar with your label, what does Angelika Kauffmann stand for?

Every piece in my label is handmade. I would describe my fashion as very feminine, but it is equally important to me that it feels comfortable. You should be able to dress elegantly without feeling restricted.

I think about things like wrap dresses or elasticated elements. I even think about whether you will still feel comfortable after a good meal. Those considerations always find their way into my designs.

Everything is produced here in Düsseldorf. But sustainability for me also means using materials as completely as possible. The last piece of fabric might become a collar or another detail. Almost nothing gets thrown away.

My designs also have a strong signature. Puff sleeves and certain cuts return again and again. Once you know my work, you can usually recognise it immediately.

Your collections often reference historical periods such as the 1920s, 1950s or 1980s, yet still feel contemporary. How do you create that balance?

To be honest, I don’t even know whether I do it consciously. I think that’s simply how my creative mind works. I watch old films, look through books or discover paintings and immediately ask myself: How would I wear that today?

I’m fascinated by aprons, unusual silhouettes or enormous dresses from past eras.

Puff sleeves and striking silhouettes make a statement. Do you often find that women love them but ultimately lack the confidence to wear them?

Very often. A lot of women look at my clothes and say, ​“I think this is beautiful, but I wouldn’t dare wear it.”

To be honest, I sometimes find that surprising because I approach fashion very differently. I don’t really care if people look at me. At the same time, of course I understand that insecurity. So I often simply ask customers to try the piece on. And suddenly they say, ​“This is absolutely amazing.”

Trying things on is incredibly important. Often, you only realise how well something suits you once you are actually wearing it. I usually have a good instinct for which cut, or even which kind of puff sleeve, works for a particular person. Those moments are one of the things I enjoy most about my work.

All your collections are made in Düsseldorf. What role does the city play for your label?

Creatively, Düsseldorf doesn’t actually inspire me at all. (laughs) My inspiration comes from elsewhere. Sometimes I’ll see someone on the street and think, wow, they look incredible. But that isn’t tied to a particular place.

Still, Düsseldorf is exactly the right place for my label. I particularly like the area around Lorettostraße and Carlsplatz. I like the smaller shops, the atmosphere and the people. Within the fashion scene especially, I’ve met many people who support one another and understand that connecting and exchanging ideas benefits everyone.

You work with a lot of young people. Do you feel their relationship with fashion is changing?

Yes, I think so. Particularly with my interns, I notice that sustainability and conscious consumption have become important subjects. Of course, many of them also openly say, ​“I simply can’t afford it.” And I completely understand that.

What I find particularly interesting, though, is that individuality seems to be becoming more important again. A few years ago, I often had the impression that lots of people wanted to look very similar. Today, I see more personality and more different styles again. 

I really like that. Because ultimately, that is what fashion is about.