4 December 2024
Unconventional jewellery: A new style perspective
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Michel continues the tradition of the goldsmith’s craft in the Gödeke family for the 3rd generation. In addition to his love for craftsmanship, he has dedicated himself to the topic of sustainability and has found a way to implement this combination in his studio in Hamburg-Duvenstedt and to pass this passion on to his customers with creative ideas.
Michel, why don’t you start by telling us a little bit about your family business.
Michel: My grandfather started the family business in Hamburg-Uhlenhorst in 1929. My father joined the company in the 60s and has now been working in it for 57 years. The business was then moved from Hamburg to Ahrensburg (small town, northeast of Hamburg), because the circumstances in Hamburg had changed. My mother is also a goldsmith and has been running this business for 33 years.
However, I did my apprenticeship in a jewellery studio in Braunschweig, with whom I still have a good contact, so that they are happy to help me out if there are capacity bottlenecks. Since I had decided to focus on sustainability, it was clear that I had to set up my own business, because it is simply not possible to implement new processes in an existing company. That was in 2018, when I opened my goldsmith shop without a customer base. I was already interested in the topic of sustainability when I was 15, but at that time it was not yet clear to me that I would implement it as a goldsmith.
“My company has been climate-neutral since its foundation and my products are climate-neutral as well. I am therefore actually the first climate-neutral goldsmith in Northern Germany.”
What are your main topics in the area of sustainability?
Michel: In terms of materials, I have chosen Fairmined. Since four months I´m an official member. Fairmined is a mining cooperation, mainly active in South America. Individual mines, but also the entire trade chain up for the gold refining are certified. Data on the quantities of materials purchased are recorded and compared with what has been produced. Of course myself am certified too, but I exclusively use Eco-Gold because it is produced in an environmentally friendly way. Fairmined guarantees fair working conditions, contributes to climate protection and no harmful substances such as cyanide and potassium cyanide are used.
Fairtrade is more about transparency than about impacts. Although I am not a member of Fairtrade, I could, if a customer wanted me to, melt down Fairtrade gold and process it, but then I would not be allowed to use the Fairtrade logo to promote it.
In addition, my company has been climate-neutral since its foundation and my products are climate-neutral as well. I am therefore actually the first climate-neutral goldsmith in Northern Germany. I have calculated the CO2 emissions of my resources, such as tools and gold, and I compensate the offsetting into a climate protection project via ClimatePartner (Climate Protection Partner). I decided to do this in cooperation with the Plastic Bank, where windmills are built in the Philippines. In addition, 10kg of plastic per ton of CO2 are fished from the Pacific Ocean.
And then you even created your own label, right?
Michel: Exactly, that’s the “RE-Gold” label, which is certified by the RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council). For this, old gold is used, which is converted into fine gold in a recycling process and from this new jewellery is created.
The refinery (a facility that specializes in the purchase and sale of precious metals and also recycles them) is audited by RJC and I process the gold. I have also had a look at my refinery (located in Pforzheim) and have seen how they ensure that the recycled gold is not mixed with other gold, how it is stored and transported.
How many people make up your team and who has which tasks?
Michel: There are only three of us at the moment. There is a trainee, my father and me. My father has been with us from the beginning on. Actually he’s already retired, but he got back to work. He takes care of the production of jewellery and I am mainly responsible for wedding rings, special techniques and customer service.
The design is usually developed together with the customers. On my website I just want to give you a feeling for what might be possible. So the customer can bring in new ideas without any bias.
Do you specialize in certain products?
Michel: We make many wedding rings, but also a lot of men’s jewellery, such as pendants, signet rings and bracelets. Because we cast the rings ourselves, new variations can be created from the intermediate steps, from which new pieces of jewellery are created.
My customers can also participate in the casting of the wedding rings. Sample rings are usually first made in silver and if the model fits, then we can cast the final shape together. This is really the most exciting work process! In this way the customer establishes a relationship with his piece of jewellery right from the start.
Outside your workshop you are also involved in other projects. What is this about?
Michel: I am trying to build a platform for a goldsmiths network. You don’t really find handmade jewellery in the internet, mostly it is industrial jewellery. I’m starting with an online shop where my products are offered and gradually more products from other workshops will be added, which also meet other jewellery standards. In general, the focus should be on the craft and it should be made clear that it is a sustainable production.
And then I also enjoy working with my brother, a fair fashion designer, Lars Gödeke. Together we have developed the project “Bant Plastic Canister”. This is a silver pendant that represents an oil can. By wearing it, you raise awareness for yourself and others that you should avoid plastic waste. A further project is already in the planning!
By the way, I have also been an environmental partner for the city of Hamburg since 2018, in which you´re certified for voluntary environmental protection work, and I am actively involved in our “Duvenstedt aktiv” district to promote and organise projects within the business community.
Many thanks Michel for the super interesting conversation!
Michel is involved in incredibly many topics linked to more sustainability and he has great ideas for making the craft more popular again. That’s why we have included him on our Hamburg Green Fashion Tour Map and plan visits at his studio. But why don’t you also take a trip to the idyllic town of Duvenstedt and visit his workshop? Maybe he has time and you can look over his shoulder during one or the other work process.
More information about Goldschmiede Michel Jens Gödeke: https://www.goldschmiede.net/
