Selected Homme

PRODUCTION LOCATIONS

• Austria
• United Kingdom
• USA
• Thailand
• Indonesia
• China
• Hungary
• Bangladesh
• Pakistan
• Turkey 

WORKING CONDITIONS & LIVING WAGES 

The brand is part of Bestseller.

Bestseller is a Danish family-owned clothing brand, founded in 1975, that has grown into a fast fashion giant with a portfolio of fashionable brands. The company employs over 41,000 people and offers its fourteen brands in over 5,300 stores in 43 countries. 

With such a big name in the industry, comes big responsibility. It’s very unfortunate that this responsibility is not yet being taken. The mother company offers a single sustainability report that covers all of its nearly twenty brands. This report is mainly filled with fragmented information about what specific brands do well, but lacks a general representation of the performance of either the mother company or the individual brands. 

During the COVID-19 pandemic, the fashion industry faced significant scrutiny over its treatment of workers, particularly in global supply chains. Bestseller, like many other fashion brands, was part of this controversy. The main issues revolved around the cancellation of orders and the impact on manufacturers. When the pandemic hit, many brands faced decreased demand and store closures, leading to the cancellation of orders already placed with factories. This had a domino effect on the factories and the workers employed there, many of whom are in countries with minimal social safety nets.

For Bestseller specifically, reports and criticisms emerged regarding its handling of payments to suppliers for orders that were either in production or completed but not yet shipped. The controversy centred around whether Bestseller and similar companies would honour their commitments to these orders, ensuring that workers would get paid for their labour. The fear was that without payment for these orders, factories would be unable to pay their workers, leading to lay-offs, unpaid wages, and exacerbating poverty and hardship in already vulnerable communities.

In response to public pressure and advocacy by labour rights organizations, some brands, including Bestseller, committed to paying both for completed orders and those in production. 

Since the controversy, the company has made small steps by implementing a Code of Conduct to ensure basic labour rights and publishing a list of suppliers. However, none of its supply chain appears to be certified by crucial labour standards that help ensure worker health and safety, living wages, and other rights.

MATERIALS 

• Cotton
• Organic cotton
• Recycled cotton
• Linen
• Wool
• Organic wool
• Recycled wool
• Nylon
• Recycled nylon
• Tencel Lyocell
• Viscose
• Polyester
• Recycled polyester
• Elastane
• Leather
• Rubber 

Selected states that they are committed to sourcing more sustainable materials where possible. They state that in 2024, 58% of all their fibres used were organic, recycled, or other certified or branded materials. In particular, 70% of cotton used was organic, and 70% of polyester used was recycled. 

Organic cotton is grown without toxic pesticides or synthetic fertilisers, improving soil health and protecting biodiversity. COSH! could not find proof of any applicable certifications, such as Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS). You can read more about organic cotton here. 

Bestseller’s sustainability report also states that they use CmiA (Cotton made in Africa), Better Cotton, and in-conversion cotton. In-conversion cotton refers to cotton from farms that are in the process of transitioning from conventional to organic farming. While in-conversion cotton is a step towards more sustainable practices, the impact reduction is gradual and not as significant as fully organic cotton.

CmiA (Cotton made in Africa) aims to improve the living conditions of African cotton farmers and reduce the environmental impact of cotton farming. It focuses on sustainable practices that are economically viable for smallholder farmers, such as water efficiency and reducing chemical use. However, while CmiA cotton is more sustainable than conventional cotton, it may not meet the strict environmental criteria of organic cotton.

Better Cotton initiated by the Better Cotton Initiative (BCI), is sourced from farmers working towards environmental, social, and economic sustainability. BCI does not strictly require organic farming practices but focuses on reducing the environmental impact of cotton farming and improving livelihoods for farmers. While Better Cotton represents a move towards more sustainable cotton production, critics argue that its standards are not as stringent as organic certification, potentially leading to greenwashing concerns.

At COSH!, we remain critical of Bestseller’s use of various types cotton claims due to the lack of transparent certifications, concrete evidence and third-party verification.

PACKAGING 

Selected does not disclose what packaging materials are used in their supply chain. Bestseller states that they are aiming to switch to recycled plastic polybags, and recyclable paper-based packaging. 

WATER USAGE & CHEMICALS 

Selected has not disclosed any measures to reduce their water or chemical use in their supply chain. As some of their products contain synthetic materials, there is potential for microplastic pollution when washed.

CIRCULAR PRODUCT DESIGN 

Selected states that they are preparing for a circular future, and Bestseller have published a Circular Design Guide intended to support brands in creating circular garments. However, Selected’s products are often material blends, which means that they will be hard to recycle at the end of their lifespan. 

Selected does however have some products which are monomaterials, including several items in their premium range which are 100% linen. 

CIRCULAR BUSINESS MODELS 

Bestseller’s Annual Report states that Selected offers consumers the opportunity to have their clothes repaired at all the brand’s retail stores. This initiative will help encourage consumers to extend the lifespan of their clothes. 

The report also states that in 2024, Bestseller introduced RE:SELECTED, a pilot initiative that enabled consumers to return their used items in exchange for a gift card. The brand states that minor flaws were fixed before the items were resold on the platform, keeping them in circulation for longer. 

DISTANCE & COMPLEXITY OF THE SUPPLY CHAIN

Production locations: 

• Austria
• United Kingdom
• USA
• Thailand
• Indonesia
• China
• Hungary
• Bangladesh
• Pakistan
• Turkey 

Selected has a complex supply chain, with 10 suppliers across different locations. The associated transportation emissions are therefore likely to be high. 

Selected’s headquarters are located in Denmark. The brand offers worldwide shipping, and has numerous stores located mostly across Europe.

TRANSPORTATION 

Bestseller states that ocean transportation is used for over 80% of all their transport. Selected specifically does not disclose details on their transportation methods. 

• Wool
• Down
• Leather 

Selected has published an animal welfare policy on their website, suggesting that they take care to ensure animal wellbeing in the production of their garments. 

The brand states that their wool is certified mulesing free. Mulesing is a controversial practice where a section of the sheep’s skin is removed to prevent parasitic larvae infestations. Selected also state that they only work with mohair that is certified to the Responsible Mohair Standard. On Selected’s website, it states that in 2024, 67% of the wool used by Selected was certified. 

Selected use cow and lamb leather. They state that their leather is a by-product of the meat industry. 

In 2024, 100% of the down used by Selected was certified. Selected sources their down from Re:Down, which reprocesses down from post-consumer goods such as duvets and jackets.

PRODUCT DESIGN 

Selected Homme collections are known for their timeless, minimalistic, classic pieces that transcend trends. Additionally, the brand aims to design for longevity, and state that they run lab tests to ensure high quality and durability. 

Selected also helps consumers properly care for their garments with a Garment Care Guide available on their website. 

SLOW FASHION PROCESSES 

Selected’s New In Men’s collection states that consumers can shop all the latest fashion trends for men, with new arrivals every week to guarantee an up-to-date and on-trend selection of clothing. This approach encourages overconsumption and overproduction fuelled by short lived trends, compromising the slow-fashion nature of the brand. 

The large selection of men’s clothing for sale on Selected’s website demonstrates that they do not produce in small quantities or made-to-order, increasing the likelihood of waste from overproduction. 

TRANSPARENCY ON PRODUCT 

Unfortunately the product pages do not state production countries, which will make it difficult for consumers to know where their specific purchases were produced. Whilst the materials are listed, Selected does not share where they are sourced from, or any applicable certifications. 

TRANSPARENCY ON PROCESSES 

Bestseller demonstrates transparency by publishing a list of its first-tier manufacturing suppliers, which includes those directly involved in the production and finishing of garments, every two months. However, it does not disclose information about processing facilities beyond tier 1, such as those involved in ginning, spinning, dyeing, and other preliminary processes. Additionally, the brand does not publish a list of its raw materials suppliers, indicating a selective approach to transparency within its supply chain.