PRODUCTION LOCATIONS
- Austria
- United Kingdom
- USA
- Thailand
- Indonesia
- China
- Hungary
- Bangladesh
- Pakistan
- Turkey
WORKING CONDITIONS & LIVING WAGES
The brand is part of Bestseller.
Bestseller is a Danish family-owned fashion company, founded in 1975, that has grown into a fast fashion giant with a portfolio of fashion brands. According to the company, it employs over 41,000 people.
The parent company offers a single sustainability report that covers all of its brands. This report is mainly filled with fragmented information about what specific brands do well, but lacks a general overview of the performance of either the parent company or the individual brands.
During the COVID-19 pandemic, the fashion industry faced significant scrutiny over its treatment of workers, particularly in global supply chains. Bestseller, like many other fashion brands, was part of this controversy. The main issues revolved around the cancellation of orders and the impact on manufacturers. When the pandemic hit, many brands faced decreased demand and store closures, leading to the cancellation of orders already placed with factories. This had a domino effect on the factories and the workers employed there, many of whom are in countries with minimal social safety nets.
For Bestseller specifically, reports and criticisms emerged regarding its handling of payments to suppliers for orders that were either in production or completed but not yet shipped. The controversy centred on whether Bestseller and similar companies would honour their commitments to these orders, ensuring that workers would get paid for their labour. The fear was that without payment for these orders, factories would be unable to pay their workers, leading to lay-offs, unpaid wages, and worsening poverty and hardship in already vulnerable communities.
In response to public pressure and advocacy by labour rights organisations, some brands, including Bestseller, committed to paying for both completed orders and those in production.
Since the controversy, the company has taken small steps by implementing a Code of Conduct intended to ensure basic labour rights and publishing a list of suppliers. However, COSH! could not find evidence that any part of its supply chain is certified to recognised labour standards, such as SA8000 or Fair Wear membership, that help ensure worker health and safety, living wages, and other rights. A Code of Conduct alone does not show how these rights are monitored or independently verified.
MATERIALS
- Cotton
- Organic cotton
- Recycled cotton
- Linen
- Wool
- Mohair
- Down
- Organic wool
- Recycled wool
- Nylon
- Recycled nylon
- Tencel Lyocell
- Viscose
- Polyester
- Recycled polyester
- Elastane
- Leather
- Rubber
Selected states that it aims to source materials it considers preferable, such as organic, recycled or certified fibres, where possible.
According to the brand, in 2024, 58% of all fibres used were organic, recycled, or other certified or branded materials. Selected does not specify which certifications or brands are included in this figure.
The brand also states that 70% of the cotton used was organic, and 70% of the polyester used was recycled. These figures do not appear to be independently verified.
Organic cotton is grown without synthetic pesticides or synthetic fertilisers, which can benefit soil health and biodiversity. However, COSH! could not find proof of any applicable certifications. It is therefore unclear whether the 70% figure refers strictly to certified organic cotton, or also includes in-conversion cotton, CmiA or Better Cotton (see below). You can read more about organic cotton here.
Bestseller’s sustainability report also states that the company uses CmiA (Cotton made in Africa), Better Cotton, and in-conversion cotton. In-conversion cotton refers to cotton from farms that are in the process of transitioning from conventional to organic farming. While in-conversion cotton is a step towards lower-impact practices, the impact reduction is gradual and not as significant as that of fully organic cotton.
CmiA (Cotton made in Africa) aims to improve the living conditions of African cotton farmers and reduce the environmental impact of cotton farming. It focuses on practices that are economically viable for smallholder farmers, such as water efficiency and reducing chemical use. However, while CmiA sets stricter requirements than conventional cotton farming, it does not meet the criteria of organic certification, as it permits the use of synthetic pesticides and fertilisers within set limits.
Better Cotton**, the standard run by the organisation Better Cotton (formerly the Better Cotton Initiative, BCI),** is sourced from farmers working towards environmental, social, and economic improvements. Better Cotton does not require organic farming practices, but focuses on reducing the environmental impact of cotton farming and improving livelihoods for farmers. Importantly, most Better Cotton is sourced through a “mass balance” system. This means that Better Cotton is mixed with conventional cotton in the supply chain, and a product sold with a Better Cotton claim does not necessarily contain any Better Cotton at all. Critics argue that its standards are not as stringent as organic certification, potentially leading to greenwashing concerns.
At COSH!, we remain critical of Bestseller’s use of various types of cotton claims due to the lack of transparent certifications, concrete evidence and third-party verification.
PACKAGING
Selected does not disclose what packaging materials are used in its supply chain. Bestseller states that it is aiming to switch to recycled plastic polybags and recyclable paper-based packaging. However, COSH! could not find a timeline, target percentages or a publicly available plan for this transition.
WATER USAGE & CHEMICALS
COSH! could not find any disclosed measures by Selected to reduce water or chemical use in its supply chain. As some of its products contain synthetic materials, they can shed microfibres, including microplastics, when washed.
CIRCULAR PRODUCT DESIGN
Selected states that it is preparing for a circular future, and Bestseller has published a Circular Design Guide intended to support its brands in creating circular garments. However, COSH! could not find a concrete plan with measurable targets for how Selected applies this guide.
Selected’s products are often material blends, which can make them harder to recycle at the end of their life with current recycling technologies.
Selected does, however, have some products made from a single fibre. Single-fibre garments are generally easier to recycle, although trims such as buttons, zips and sewing thread can still complicate recycling.
CIRCULAR BUSINESS MODELS
Bestseller’s Annual Report states that Selected offers consumers the opportunity to have their clothes repaired at all the brand’s retail stores. This initiative can help encourage consumers to extend the lifespan of their clothes.
The report also states that in 2024, Bestseller introduced RE:SELECTED, a pilot initiative that enabled consumers to return their used items in exchange for a gift card. The brand states that minor flaws were fixed before the items were resold through the brand’s resale channel, keeping them in circulation for longer. As this is a pilot, it is not clear in which markets it is available, how many items have been resold, or whether it will be continued.
DISTANCE & COMPLEXITY OF THE SUPPLY CHAIN
- Austria
- United Kingdom
- USA
- Thailand
- Indonesia
- China
- Hungary
- Bangladesh
- Pakistan
- Turkey
- Selected’s headquarters are located in Denmark.
- The brand offers worldwide shipping, and has numerous stores located mostly across Europe.
Selected has a complex supply chain, with production in 10 countries across several continents. This is likely to involve long transport distances and associated emissions.
TRANSPORTATION
Bestseller states that ocean freight is used for over 80% of all its transport. Sea freight generally causes lower emissions per kilometre than air freight. Selected itself does not disclose details on its transportation methods.
- Wool
- Down
- Mohair
- Leather
Selected has published an animal welfare policy on its website. However, a policy alone does not show how it is implemented, monitored or independently verified.
The brand states that its wool is mulesing-free. Mulesing is a controversial practice where a section of the sheep’s skin is removed to prevent parasitic larvae infestations.
On its website, Selected states that in 2024, 67% of the wool it used was certified, but it does not name the certification standard. This also means that around a third of the wool is not covered by a named third-party certification. Selected also states that it only works with mohair that is certified to the Responsible Mohair Standard (RMS), an independent standard that covers animal welfare and land management.
Selected uses cow and lamb leather. The brand states that its leather is a by-product of the meat industry. COSH! could not find information on how the leather is tanned or whether the tanneries are certified, for example by the Leather Working Group.
According to the brand, in 2024, 100% of the down used by Selected was certified. Selected sources its down from Re:Down, which reprocesses down from post-consumer goods such as duvets and jackets. Selected does not name the certification that applies to this down.
PRODUCT DESIGN
Selected describes its collections as timeless, minimalist and classic. Additionally, the brand states that it aims to design for longevity, and that it runs lab tests to ensure quality and durability. COSH! could not find details on which tests are carried out or what standards they follow.
Selected also helps consumers properly care for their garments with a Garment Care Guide available on its website.
SLOW FASHION PROCESSES
Selected’s New In section for men states that consumers can shop all the latest fashion trends, with new arrivals every week to guarantee an up-to-date and on-trend selection of clothing. This approach encourages overconsumption and overproduction fuelled by short-lived trends, which contradicts the brand’s claim of timeless design and compromises the slow fashion nature of the brand.
The large selection of men’s clothing for sale on Selected’s website suggests that the brand does not produce in small quantities or on a made-to-order basis, increasing the likelihood of waste from overproduction.
TRANSPARENCY ON PRODUCT
Unfortunately the product pages do not state production countries, which will make it difficult for consumers to know where their specific purchases were produced. Whilst the materials are listed, Selected does not share where they are sourced from, or any applicable certifications.
TRANSPARENCY ON PROCESSES
Bestseller provides some transparency by publishing a list of its first-tier manufacturing suppliers, which includes those directly involved in the production and finishing of garments. According to the company, this list is updated every two months. However, it does not disclose information about processing facilities beyond tier 1, such as those involved in ginning, spinning, dyeing, and other preliminary processes. Additionally, the brand does not publish a list of its raw material suppliers, indicating a selective approach to transparency within its supply chain.
Conclusion
SELECTED Homme embodies the essence of Scandinavian minimalism, effortlessly blending sleek design with functional style. Discover the collectin on the COSH! map below.