Esmé-studios

PRODUCTION LOCATIONS

• China (own production facility)
• Bangladesh
• India
• Portugal
• Turkey

WORKING CONDITIONS & LIVING WAGES

Oriental Group produces in China, Bangladesh, India, Portugal and Turkey. The company’s own production facilities are located in China, where around 200 employees work in a GOTS, GRS and BSCI-certified sewing factory. Having its own factory enables direct control over working conditions, quality standards and the implementation of ecological measures. Nevertheless, China harbours certain risks, for example in the area of environmental pollution or human rights issues, which Oriental Group says it counters by registering with the Chinese environmental information system IPE. 

In Bangladesh and India, the company works with long-standing partner companies, although these countries are generally regarded as high-risk areas in terms of labour conditions. Accordingly, risk assessments have been carried out there to pay particular attention to problematic aspects. 

They work closely with suppliers on a long-term basis. New production partners are only accepted if they have a valid social certification or are prepared to be certified accordingly. 100% of production at esmé studios takes place in certified factories. 

All main suppliers have signed a Code of Conduct based on the BSCI guidelines. The company regularly visits its production facilities and actively engages in dialogue with suppliers to ensure transparency, fairer working conditions and environmental standards.

Specific social engagement is carried out by a permanently employed ESG officer in Asia, who carries out risk assessments on site. The company also has an official grievance mechanism system, which it claims is open to all stakeholders along the supply chain. This mechanism is designed to ensure that grievances can be reported and rectified confidentially and effectively.

MATERIALS

• GOTS-certified natural fibres:
  • Organic cotton
  • Linen
  • Wool
  • Hemp
• GRS-certified recycled fibres:
  • Polyester
  • Nylon
  • Cotton
  • Wool
• LENZING™ fibres:
  • TENCEL™ Lyocell
  • TENCEL™ Modal
  • LENZING™ ECOVERO™ Viscose
• Other fibres:
• LWG-certified leather
• RWS-certified wool
• Cashmere

PACKAGING

• Packaging in e‑commerce: Since the end of 2022, Oriental Group has been offering online retailers the option of choosing the RE-ZIP circular packaging solution. This can be returned by customers after receiving the goods and reused several times. Customers receive a discount voucher as an incentive. RE-ZIP packaging reduces CO₂ emissions by up to 87%, water consumption by up to 89% and wood consumption by up to 93% compared to disposable packaging. If RE-ZIP is not used, recycled polybags are used, which can also be recycled further. 
• Packaging in the supply chain: Goods from supplier factories are transported in polybags made from recycled plastic and in FSC-certified cardboard boxes. Samples are packed together in a single large bag, while regular garments are packed individually to protect them from moisture, dust and dirt. The original polybags are reused for onward transport to shop customers. Around 50% of incoming cartons are also reused for shipping. The remaining shipping boxes consist of 80% recycled material and 20% virgin fibres from responsibly managed forests.

WATER USAGE & CHEMICALS

The company’s chemicals management is based on the European REACH regulation. All necessary chemical tests are carried out and documented to ensure the safety of the substances used. This applies to both the production of materials and further processing in the various stages of the supply chain. In addition, the Group ensures that all certified partner companies – for example within the framework of GOTS and GRS – are also subject to strict environmental standards with regard to chemicals, waste water and occupational health and safety.
In terms of water consumption, the focus is on the use of fibres that require fewer resources. The LENZING™ ECOVERO™ viscose fibres used, for example, consume up to 50% less water than conventional viscose, according to Higg MSI. TENCEL™ Lyocell is also produced in a closed-loop system in which solvents are recovered and water is used efficiently.

No precise details are given for dyeing and printing processes, but it is clear that GOTS-certified processes in particular are a priority – which by definition includes the use of environmentally and health-friendlier dyeing methods. 

A separate strategy on microplastic emissions is not mentioned.

CIRCULAR PRODUCT DESIGN 

esmé studios uses numerous mixed fibres in its collections, which can limit the recyclability of the products. These blends make it considerably more difficult to separate them by type at a later date and therefore to recycle the materials. 

Customers can return used garments, which are then resold in the company’s own pre-owned webshop. Customers receive a voucher for every item they send in. The aim is to extend the life of the returned garments by reselling them. Garments that are no longer wearable as samples or surplus stock are sorted out and treated as textile waste.

For high-priced items from esmé studios, the company covers repair costs for retailers in the event of minor damage. In addition, all items with buttons are supplied with replacement buttons. A design manual with specific guidelines on durable and repair-friendlier products is planned for 2024.

CIRCULAR BUSINESS MODEL

esmé studios pursues a circular business model through its own take-back service, in which worn items of clothing are taken back and resold in the pre-owned webshop. The aim is to extend the useful life and conserve resources. Items that are no longer wearable are disposed of; recycling has not yet taken place. 

There is no repair service, but accessories for minor repairs are supplied. 

From 2024, a design manual will specifically promote circular product design.

DISTANCE & COMPLEXITY OF THE SUPPLY CHAIN

• China (own production facility, GOTS and GRS certified)
• Bangladesh
• India
• Portugal
• Turkey
• esmé studios is part of the Oriental Group based in Denmark.

TRANSPORTATION

• Transport within the supply chain: esmé studios transports goods from China, India and Bangladesh primarily by sea freight, and from China partly by train. Air freight is avoided and only used in exceptional cases for samples. Deliveries from Portugal and Turkey are made by lorry, although the quantities from these countries are small. To reduce emissions, options for more climate-friendly transport are being examined, for example by carriers investing in CO₂ compensation or alternative fuels such as methanol.
• Transport in e‑commerce: In e‑commerce, shipments are sent to end customers via various parcel services. Some of the shipments are sent using the more climate-friendly DHL Go Green service, which offsets emissions through certified projects. In addition, esmé studios offers RE-ZIP as a reusable packaging option to reduce transport emissions caused by packaging waste.

• Wool
• Cashmere
• RWS certified wool

esmé studios uses animal materials to a very limited extent. Only mulesing-free wool is used, often with RWS certification (Responsible Wool Standard), which places high demands on animal welfare, traceability and social standards along the entire supply chain.

No statements are made about cashmere.

In its Supplier Manual, esmé studios obliges all partners to comply with clear animal welfare standards. This includes the ​‘Five Freedoms’ of the Farm Animal Welfare Council – including the right of animals to freedom from hunger, pain, fear and the opportunity to express their own species-specific behaviour. 

PRODUCT DESIGN

esmé studios offers clothing exclusively for women. The collections consist of timeless essentials such as trousers, tops, dresses, jumpsuits and homewear – designed in Scandinavian style with a focus on neutral colours and minimalist aesthetics.

SLOW FASHION PROCESSES

Instead of four collections per year, only two main collections have been published annually since 2023 in order to avoid overproduction and promote the longevity of the designs. The collections consist of timeless, season-independent pieces that can be worn for several years.

esmé studios does not offer a made-to-measure or made-to-order model. 

TRANSPARENCY ON PRODUCT

The esmé studios product pages primarily list information on the materials used and design features. For example, the material content and existing certifications such as GOTS are clearly stated. The page also describes the cut, special details and, in some cases, length information for certain sizes. 

However, there is no information on the country of production or the specific production site. Although esmé studios has internal data on its tier 1 suppliers and is aiming for more transparency along the supply chain by 2025, there is currently no product traceability for consumers. Traceability therefore ends at product level with material details and references to sustainability certificates.

TRANSPARENCY ON PROCESS

esmé studios provides detailed information on social and environmental processes on the company and brand side, in particular in the annual CSR reports published by the parent company Oriental Group. These reports contain information on certifications, use of materials, production countries, supply chain structure, social standards, environmental targets and concrete progress. However, the information is mainly available at a general level – i.e. relating to the company as a whole and not to individual products.

Specifically, there is no disclosure of calculations or price breakdowns. Production costs, margins or wages along the supply chain are not made transparent.

The brand is working on greater transparency within the supply chain and has formulated the goal of clearly mapping the entire supply chain up to Tier 3 (material processing) by 2025. However, production countries and suppliers are not currently specified at product level, neither on the product pages nor via QR codes or digital passports.