How credible are certificates in fashion?

During the panel discussion ​“Certificates and Sustainability”, Luise Barsch (COSH!), Ferdinand Josephi (Grüner Knopf), Veronika Scheffold and Maya Buller (JAN ​’N JUNE), and Britta Opitz (Tchibo) spoke with Ninu Dramis (FABRIC) about the opportunities, limitations, and future of labels and certifications.

Why do certificates matter and why do they often seem like a jungle? Certificates in the fashion industry serve multiple purposes: they create trust by making ecological and social standards visible, contribute to transparency in supply chains, and often act as marketing tools, helping brands establish a clearer sustainability profile.

However, certificates also have clear limitations. Many standards only assess parts of the supply chain, such as materials or production steps, thus providing an incomplete picture. For smaller brands, high costs and administrative burdens can be prohibitive, limiting access to established certifications. Furthermore, greenwashing risks arise when large companies use certificates strategically to project a sustainable image without fundamentally changing their business model.

Criticism and controversy

The credibility of certifications is increasingly under pressure. When even fast fashion companies receive sustainability labels, the overall value of such certifications comes into question.

Even well-established audits and certifications cannot ensure full compliance, and systemic issues often go undetected.

In 2025, even the ultrafast fashion label Princess Polly obtained B Corp certification, despite its business model being based on mass production, short product cycles, and constant trend turnover – the very drivers of environmental harm and social exploitation in fashion. The fact that such a company can be certified appears contradictory.

How is that possible? The B Corp assessment does not evaluate the overall business model but rather a range of individual criteria, such as governance, transparency, supply chain management, and sustainability initiatives. Companies that collect enough points across these areas can achieve certification, even if their core business still relies on overproduction and high resource consumption.

There are also gaps in certification systems. Practices like upcycling, local production, or craftsmanship promotion are often not reflected in mainstream standards. As a result, precisely those actors most committed to resource efficiency and circularity remain overlooked.

Another key weakness lies in the fact that overproduction and the lifespan of garments are rarely considered. Even certified products contribute little to genuine sustainability if they are only worn a handful of times before being discarded.

What’s next?

The certification landscape is expected to evolve in the coming years. With the introduction of Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) and stricter minimum sustainability standards, companies will increasingly be required to manage not only their supply chains but also the end-of-life phase of their products.

Alongside traditional certification, digital solutions are gaining importance. Tools such as the COSH! Digital Wardrobe App show how the actual lifespan and usage of clothing can be measured. These insights provide a more realistic understanding of a garment’s impact, independent of whether it carries a label. The future of certification may thus shift towards dynamic, data-driven systems that reflect ongoing changes rather than static, one-off audits.

What should consumers pay attention to?

For consumers, certificates can offer guidance, but the broader context matters more. Key aspects include a garment’s longevity, frequency of use, and whether it can be repaired or passed on. Conscious purchasing involves looking beyond labels to how clothing fits into one’s daily life.

COSH! combines various certifications, standards, and information sources to make sustainability more understandable and less complex. This allows smaller brands to make their efforts visible, even when official certification is financially or logistically out of reach. Shoppers gain a transparent overview without having to investigate supply chains themselves.

On the COSH! brand pages, the COSH! Brand Index serves as a rating system, evaluating brands across seven impact themes. This enables consumers to see what approaches a brand takes without conducting their own detailed research – supporting informed purchasing decisions that go beyond conventional certificates.

What should labels consider?

For small labels, building trust and transparency without costly certification is crucial. This can be achieved by showing local production, openly communicating processes, and sharing evidence such as invoices, supplier details, or production photos. Such openness strengthens credibility and helps consumers understand what a brand truly stands for – even without an official seal.

Responsibility begins with openness

Certificates remain a valuable tool to make sustainability measurable and tangible in the fashion industry. Yet they are not the ultimate solution. A garment does not become sustainable simply because it bears a label.

A truly holistic perspective is needed – one that includes circularity, actual garment use, and transparent communication throughout the entire supply chain. Companies must also be willing to admit mistakes, communicate honestly, and take responsibility. Real sustainability grows from authentic actions and a genuine commitment to accountability.