Underprotection

PRODUCTION LOCATIONS

• China
• India
• Greece (spinning mill for organic cotton)
• Italy and France (lace)
• Europe (specific countries not disclosed)

WORKING CONDITIONS & WAGES

Underprotection states that it only works with certified suppliers, naming amfori BSCI, Sedex and WRAP. BSCI, Sedex and WRAP are audit systems that mainly check compliance with the legal minimum wage. A living wage is therefore not guaranteed. The brand’s code of conduct also only states that suppliers should work towards paying a living wage.

The code is based on international standards such as the ILO core labour standards and the OECD Guidelines. It requires grievance mechanisms for workers and allows both announced and unannounced audits, including at subcontractors. According to the code, hidden factories are not permitted.

The brand says it focuses on long-term partnerships and visits its suppliers. 
According to the company, its main Indian supplier has worked exclusively for Underprotection from the very beginning.

Underprotection supports Treeapp (tree planting in Madagascar) and ReSea (collecting plastic from waterways). Please note: projects like these do not reduce the brand’s own footprint.

MATERIALS

• TENCEL™ Lyocell
• Organic cotton
• Recycled wool
• RWS-certified wool
• Recycled polyester (GRS-certified)
• Recycled polyamide (Q‑NOVA, according to the brand mostly GRS-certified)
• Recycled elastane (ROICA™ Eco-Smart, according to the brand more than 50% recycled, GRS-certified)
• Banana fibres (no further details given)

How sustainable are organic cotton and recycled polyester really?

PACKAGING

• For e‑commerce, Underprotection’s website states that it uses mailing bags made from recycled plastic (GRS-certified), recycled cardboard boxes, gift boxes and paper. According to the brand, gift boxes and gift bags are FSC-certified.
• According to the company, every product arrives in the supply chain in a polybag made from either recycled or potentially biodegradable plastic.
• The brand says suppliers’ cardboard boxes are reused.

Note: no standard is given for biodegradability and compostability. Without this information, the claim cannot be verified.

WATER USE & CHEMICALS

Some products carry the OEKO-TEX® STANDARD 100 label, which tests the finished product for harmful substances.

According to its code of conduct, the company requires compliance with the EU chemicals regulation REACH. On water use, suppliers are expected to work towards reducing consumption. No concrete figures on water, dyeing or wastewater are available.

To reduce microplastic particles, the brand sells the Guppyfriend washing bag.

CIRCULAR PRODUCT DESIGN

Underprotection claims that it always chooses materials that are ​“as close to 100% pure as possible” so that they are easier to recycle later. In practice, however, the range includes both mono-fibres and blended fabrics, and blends make later recycling considerably more difficult.

Through its take-back programme, the brand accepts old Underprotection items. These are meant to be upcycled, recycled or downcycled. Underprotection openly admits that this is a first attempt and that no scaled recycling solution yet exists for some materials. What actually happens to the collected items is not explained.

According to the website, there is an upcycling collection, but details are missing.

CIRCULAR BUSINESS MODEL

• Lifetime repair guarantee: you can repair items yourself or take them to a tailor near you. Underprotection then gives you double the value of the repair costs back as a voucher.
• Take-back: items can be dropped off at the showroom in Copenhagen or sent by post (minimum of three items). In return, you receive a 30% discount with no expiry date.
• No rental and no second-hand sales through the brand.

DISTANCE & COMPLEXITY OF THE SUPPLY CHAIN

• Production locations: China, India, Greece, Italy, France and other undisclosed European countries.
• Underprotection’s headquarters are in Herlev, near Copenhagen, Denmark.

TRANSPORT

• Transport in the supply chain: Underprotection claims to ship as much as possible by sea and rail and as little as possible by air. No figures are provided.
• Transport for e‑commerce: local postal services.

• Wool (recycled and RWS-certified)
• Origin: not disclosed

According to the brand, the RWS wool is mulesing-free. The Responsible Wool Standard checks animal welfare and land management on the farms.

The code of conduct includes a dedicated section on animal welfare and refers to the Responsible Down Standard and the Responsible Wool Standard as proof.

PRODUCT DESIGN

Underprotection makes modern lingerie, bras, briefs, thongs, loungewear, bikinis, swimsuits, hosiery and period underwear for women. The designs are bold, colourful and feminine. The brand says it designs ​“for all shapes and sizes”.

According to the brand, the period underwear lasts on average 40 washes or two years.

SLOW FASHION PROCESSES

How many collections Underprotection releases each year is not disclosed.

The brand takes part in sales.

The brand does not offer made-to-order or made-to-measure.

PRODUCT TRANSPARENCY

On the product page you will find the material composition, the country of production and a size chart. Accurate sizing information can help prevent returns.

PROCESS TRANSPARENCY

Underprotection shares a lot of general information: its code of conduct, materials, packaging, SDG contributions and B Corp assessment. According to the website, it publishes annual reporting. A supplier list is not published.